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Routes in Foothill Crag ("The Foot")

Big Bolts T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Blown Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chummin' for Splatter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Clean Sweep T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
From the Ashes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
I Love L.A. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Magic Feather S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moon Doggies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sob Story T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Teetering TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Yvon Chouinard, early 1970s
Page Views: 1,640 total, 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A few tricky moves come right off the deck. Ask for a careful spot from your belayer. Then, an easy wide crack with good pro leads to a ledge with a bush.

Place gear high as leaving this ledge and the bush is the crux of the route (perhaps 5.7). Look for face holds on either side of the crack.

Steep crack and face climbing (5.4) with good pro take you to the top of the route. Look for the fixed anchor immediately atop the crack on the left. Be very suspicious of the two older bolts in the summit boulder.

Protection

Gear from small (#1 TCU) to 3.5". You might want to double up on medium-sized gear (1/2"-1"). The crux is protected by a solid 2" cam. New fixed anchors atop the crack: two 1/2" Rawl-style five piece expansion bolts (2006).
Steven Wolpe
Ojai, CA
 
Steven Wolpe   Ojai, CA
 
Left anchor bolt is starting to wiggle a little. Jul 6, 2015
The bush mentioned above is gone. I suggest bringing cams and nuts from less than 1/2" to 4.5". An outstanding climb that protects well, except for the very beginning. There are some mandatory hand jams, but otherwise look for hand holds to the right and left to complement the crack. Very fun! Jan 12, 2014