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Routes in Foothill Crag ("The Foot")

Big Bolts T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Blown Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chummin' for Splatter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Clean Sweep T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
From the Ashes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
I Love L.A. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Magic Feather S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moon Doggies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sob Story T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Teetering TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Reese Martin & Dale Buckstaff, 1987
Page Views: 1,031 total, 7/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The first half of this route is marked by long reaches between good holds on excellent rock (at least by area standards) and goes at solid 5.8.

The second half of the route follows easier moves up softer rock. The finish is airy and exposed.

All in all a fun route!

When setting a top rope, be sure to clip quickdraws to the top two bolts as directional protection for the climber. Historically, a few climbers have taken scary wings off the route to the right.

Protection

Three bolts and 2 questionable gear placements protect more than 90 feet of climbing. Only the boldest of climbers will want to lead this route.

Two 1/4" bolts (at 30 and 60 feet respectively) were replaced in late 2005. The first bolt is now a 1/2" Rawl. The second is a 3/8" wedge-bolt. The top of Sob Story is now protected by two sets of anchor bolts--two placed by Reese Martin in 1999 and two 1/2" Rawls placed in 2006. The rock at the top of Sob Story is coarse-grained and extremely soft (it can actually be scratched with a fingernail). Might be wise to use both sets of anchors when building a top-rope.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Personally, my favorite route at the crag. Awesome movement. And a proud lead! Aug 20, 2013