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Routes in Monolith

Black Dagger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cantaloupe Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cantaloupe Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Cataract Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Future Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gorillas in the Moss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lardbutt S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lower North Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Miscegenation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Orgasmic Depression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocket in my pocket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
West of the Sun S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
√úbermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Jim Thornburg, 1994
Page Views: 1,797 total, 12/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Feb 6, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a short and powerful sport route up the N face of the Monolith. There is some loose or hollow rock on the route, but over the years, since the late 90's, nothing significant has come off so it is pretty solid. Long moves to start followed by powerful movement on small holds up the butt feature.

Start by stemming up a left facing corner formed by the wall and an adjacent block. Traverse left onto the face with some very long reaches and up to a point just below the butt feature. This first bit is very physical but on pretty good holds. Move in the roof with some underclings then up the short left facing corner/arete feature with hard moves off of much smaller holds. Finish this section with a tough move to a perfect 4 finger square knob at the top of the corner. From this point a few long but easier moves that require good foot work take you to the top and the anchors.

Protection

5 Bolts to a bolted anchor and a stick clip. The landing under the high first bolt is pretty bad so a stick clip is a really nice thing to have. If you don't have a stick with you it is possible to climb up above where the route traverses and reach down and left to clip the first bolt.

Location
On the short north face of the Monolith starting out of a pit between the trail and the wall. You will see an obvious small roof that curves to a left facing corner about half way up the wall, the route starts down and right in a corner between the wall and another block. Moves up and left ot the "butt" and back right slightly to finish.

Photos

Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
  5.13b/c
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
  5.13b/c
vimeo.com/73818072 Mar 29, 2015
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Sorry Adam. Jun 7, 2010
Jim's description of his own route finally got updated...

I kinda liked the previous version, at least for examples sake.... Feb 15, 2010