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Routes in Monolith

Black Dagger, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cantaloupe Death S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cantaloupe Death Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Cataract Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direct Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Feed the Beast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foreplay S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Future Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gorillas in the Moss S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hard Variation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hawaiian Noises S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Hot Lava Lucy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lardbutt S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lower North Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Miscegenation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Orgasmic Depression S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rocket in my pocket S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subterranean Tango S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tailspin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
West of the Sun S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
√úbermensch S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Davis, David Rubine, 9/88
Page Views: 1,112 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ian Walters on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the bolted face to the right of Rocket In My Pocket on the North face of the Monolith. Although it's pretty short, it's sustained and balancey right up the the crux. Good body positioning and a love of crimping will get you to the business: an off-balance, mean little punch to a good edge. Have fun trying not to pump out while pulling onto the slab above.

Location

Although it is visible from the trail, the route may not be very apparent due to the small size of the holds. The quarter inch belay bolt is helpful, as there is a sizable hole just to the right of the climb which, unless you're into broken ankles and bats, is very avoidable.

Protection

5 Bolts

Photos

Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
 
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
 
This could be my favorite 5.12 in the park. Great technical movement, great history. Although I wish one bolt (the last one) was in a different location it is still a classic. You have to climb the crux on what could be for some, if you're like me, an uncomfortable distance from the last bolt. It's manageable and I don't think it's dangerous but I'm never too psyched to be out there. Most climbers probably are not as concerned about this as I am, but for the few who are, we should probably start some sort of pansy sport climber club where we get together and only climb routes with bolts 6 feet apart or less, and mainly indoors where it is safe. Nov 30, 2014