Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FA by Tom Davis, Mike Harrington and Kelly Rich, February 1988
Page Views: 1,978 total · 14/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Aug 31, 2007 with updates from Jeff Gorris
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crux is the high step getting to the third bolt. This is probably the best 10d at the monument.

Location

Around the corner and to the right of Hot Lava Lucy and Cantaloupe Death.

Protection

Four bolts to chains.

Photos

Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
 
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
 
I don't agree with the statement that this is the best .10d in the park. It's good, but probably not the best. Feb 1, 2013
Marc Squiddo
Mountain View, CA
Marc Squiddo   Mountain View, CA
its a great route and I used to do it frequently. Seems to recall it being much easier and last lead years ago a hold snapped and it certainly stepped up in difficulty. May 20, 2014
FA by Tom Davis, Mark Harrington and Kelly Rich, February 1988. Mar 27, 2015
obiss
  5.11b PG13
obiss  
  5.11b PG13
We climbed this earlier this month and I think it's safe to say that this no longer feels like a .10 Likely broken holds mid pitch. Still a fun route, but kind of exciting if you're looking for something at this grade. Certainly more difficult than any set of moves on POD. Oct 18, 2016
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
Definitely not 5.10... guessing something broke. Also the bolting is also such that it's really easy to get a foot stuck behind the rope making the crux move. I felt this route was harder than the 5.11b to the left (Mountain Project has listed as Lower North Face). This route can be top-roped after leading the 5.11b as they share an anchor. Mar 13, 2017
swimj
 
swimj  
 
Climbed this in 2018 and I thought 10d to be a fair grade. The hands are not always obvious but I thought there were lots of good feet options. Thoughtful and fun -- I just wish it were longer.

From the ground I thought the route looked a bit runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts, but it's very reasonable climbing between there. Good clipping stances.

Major plus of this route when it's hot: its in the shade in the middle of the day. Jul 29, 2018