Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Mike Johnson Route
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 48
votes
Early Access
Routes in Elevenmile Dome
|
|
Cheryl's Peril S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Counter Strike S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Dusty Roads S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
EZ Street T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Face Value S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Good Country for Old Men S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Great Unknown (submitted as Unnamed 5.9), The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Great Unknown, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Happy Trails S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
I'm Lichen It S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Jet Setter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Kathy's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
|
|
Mike Johnson Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Miss Wyoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Moby Grape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
More Tea Vicar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Northwest Passage T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Original Sin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Overleaf, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Repulsion Convulsion S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Robbie’s Mom T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
|
|
Route 64 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Sideways S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Slab Happy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
South Face Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Stone Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Walk in the Park S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.94534, -105.39205 |
| FA: | Mike Johnson |
| Page Views: | 1,747 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Heiser on Aug 21, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021
Details
Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.
Description
Find this route starting from the righthand end of the ledge that "South Face Direct" starts from.
Clip bolts up the wall on 5.7 and 5.8 climbing to the bulge. Decipher the bulge using trickery and slopers and continue on to the anchor. The bulge is much harder than the rest of the pitch and is only a move or two. This is worth doing if you have stopped an Elevenmile. P1 is 80 feet long.
Per Jonathan Roy: there is a second pitch to this route, which is great fun if you like easy, runout adventure. I didn't climb the first 30 feet of pitch 2, since I crossed in from the Face Value P1 anchors. Stuart Green's guidebook shows a second set of anchors above the first anchors before the first protection bolt (his book, Rock Climbing Colorado, is missing this route and mistakenly labels it Face Value) though this and the grade are unconfirmed until the first bolt. Continue straight up from the anchors to a protection bolt below a ledge. Make easy but runout moves to gain the ledge, and find another bolt up higher. Continue to the bolted anchor on the top left corner of the slab. It is 5.6 by the easiest line, 40m or so, 2 confirmed protection bolts. The 2 (possibly more) protection bolts are in bad shape, and the P2 anchor and nearby hangerless studs could also use work. P2 is ~130 feet long.
Protection
P1: six (now 5) bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Per Jonathan Roy: P2: 2 or possibly 3 bolts, and a sling for a rock horn.
Eds. Here is an explanation: per Jesse Morehouse: there are now only 5 protection bolts. It looks like there used to be 6 (buttonheads with homemade Leeper-style hangers), but those have either been removed or hammered flat (total eyesore), and the original anchor is higher on the wall than the current top anchor, which probably meant the original 6th protection bolt was about where the newer top anchor is.
5 Comments