Avg: 3 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Stewart Green, Ed Russell, and John Meyers, April 1978|
|Page Views:||886 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Stewart M. Green on Sep 24, 2018|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Over the years, I've repeated Jet Setter a few times, but it was rarely climbed, because it was R rated. The last time I led it, I decided to place a few bolts in the first pitch to make it a safer lead for most climbers. Brian Shelton, Bill Olszewski, and I did the route in September 2018 and placed 5 bolts on the lead on the first pitch (thanks, Brian!) as well as a two-bolt anchor at the end of pitch 1. The rest of the route remains gear only.
Finding route: start below a clean slab between Original Sin on the left and Happy Trails on the right.
Pitch 1: climb past 2 bolts to a thin roof. Step left on loose flakes or pull directly over roof, and climb to bolt at stance. Traverse right to a bolt in a left-angling roof, and crank over (5.7+) to the upper slab. Step up, clip a bolt on Happy Trails, and then work up right across slab past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor below the right side of a big roof, 145 feet. Rappel here with 70-meter rope or do 2 rappels with single rope.
Pitch 2: traverse down right in scoops right of roof, then climb up right to a ledge. Continue up featured but runout rock to a belay stance below the right side of a big roof.
Pitch 3: climb over roof, then run up easy rock to top of Elevenmile Dome.
Descent: descend by scrambling down south side of the dome tothe road. Instead of doing pitch 3, you can traverse left on easy ledges to the left side of the roof and make 2 double-rope rappels down South Face Direct to the parking lot or scramble down the left side of the dome.