Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Stewart Green, Ed Russell, and John Meyers, April 1978
Page Views: 294 total · 33/month
Shared By: Stewart M. Green on Sep 24, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

I first did this route in the spring of 1978 with Ed Russell and John Meyers. I led the first pitch, Ed the second, and John the third. No bolts were placed, and the route was climbed on nuts only, primarily with small wired nuts. At the same time, we also opened Happy Trails and EZ Street, both later bolted by Mark Van Horn in 1994, on the lead without gear, although Happy Trails veered right on the upper slab to finish up Jet Setter.

Over the years, I've repeated Jet Setter a few times, but it was rarely climbed, because it was R rated. The last time I led it, I decided to place a few bolts in the first pitch to make it a safer lead for most climbers. Brian Shelton, Bill Olszewski, and I did the route in September 2018 and placed 5 bolts on the lead on the first pitch (thanks, Brian!) as well as a two-bolt anchor at the end of pitch 1. The rest of the route remains gear only.

Finding route: start below a clean slab between Original Sin on the left and Happy Trails on the right.

Pitch 1: climb past 2 bolts to a thin roof. Step left on loose flakes or pull directly over roof, and climb to bolt at stance. Traverse right to a bolt in a left-angling roof, and crank over (5.7+) to the upper slab. Step up, clip a bolt on Happy Trails, and then work up right across slab past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor below the right side of a big roof, 145 feet. Rappel here with 70-meter rope or do 2 rappels with single rope.

Pitch 2: traverse down right in scoops right of roof, then climb up right to a ledge. Continue up featured but runout rock to a belay stance below the right side of a big roof.

Pitch 3: climb over roof, then run up easy rock to top of Elevenmile Dome.

Descent: descend by scrambling down south side of the dome tothe  road. Instead of doing pitch 3, you can traverse left on easy ledges to the left side of the roof and make 2 double-rope rappels down South Face Direct to the parking lot or scramble down the left side of the dome.

Location

Jet Setter is on the middle of the East Face of Elevenmile Dome. Reach the start by walking down the road to Counter Strike. Scramble up boulders past Moby Grape. Start between Moby Grape and Happy Trails. The first bolt is about 25 feet up.

Protection

A set of wired nuts like Stoppers or Rocks and small to medium cams. A #0.5 or #0.75 Camalot provides extra pro in a crack below the first small roof on pitch 1.

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