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Routes in Elevenmile Dome

Cheryl's Peril S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Counter Strike S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
EZ Street T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face Value S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Unknown, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Trails S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kathy's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Mike Johnson Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Miss Wyoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Grape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Tea Vicar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Sin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overleaf, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Repulsion Convulsion S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
South Face Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
FA: 1979 Stewart Green, John Myers and Ed Russell
Page Views: 3,993 total, 32/month
Shared By: Dale D on Sep 11, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Three pitches with the second being the crux. This route was bolted in 1994 by Mark Van Horn. P1 - goes at 5.4 with 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. P2 goes over the little headwall which is protected by bolts and is about 5.6. P3 heads to the top and eases off again.

P1 is a great beginner lead up very featured slab. The three bolts are where you need them to make it feel not run out. A 60m rope will get you down from the belay anchor with lots to spare. I think this first pitch is a better first lead than Counter Strike.

Location

This is to the right of Happy Trails. It starts on a ledge with a tree.

Protection

Draws and a light rack if you want one.
Tim Stevens
Divide, Colorado
  5.9
Tim Stevens   Divide, Colorado
  5.9
My wife led this route in the summer of 2008 and went to far left at the headwall on the 3rd pitch, fell, and sprained her ankle four days before our wedding. We went back this weekend and completed the route.

The first pitch is a good beginner lead, easy climbing, heady, with only 3 bolts and not much harder than 5.4. On the second pitch, after clipping the second bolt on the headwall, I stepped right and climbed the arete. It was a little heady but not much harder than 5.7. On the third pitch, I moved right from the bolt on the headwall to gain the ledge. It felt 5.9 to me. The anchor is over the upper headwall off to the left. I used a #3 Camalot on the third pitch.

Two raps with a 70m will get you within 5' off the ground. Otherwise, do 3 raps. May 16, 2013
Casey Lems
Lakewood, CO
  5.9
Casey Lems   Lakewood, CO
  5.9
2nd and 3rd pitches are certainly not 5.6. I thought the headwall moves were harder than 5.8. The third pitch crux was very thin and heady.

As Chris said, bring a light rack and don't make this your first lead.

Also, we were barely able to do 2 raps to the ground from the 3rd set of anchors with a 70m. If you have a 60m rope, do 3 raps. Jun 11, 2010
Chris Grosshans  
  5.9
The first pitch is easy (5.5ish). I do not think the second or third pitch were 5.6. The head wall on the second pitch is tricky (5.8ish). If you are short, you will have problems reaching the holds on the third pitches crux. I do not think this is a good first lead.

I would recommend bringing a light rack as the bolts are spacey. Most of my placements were small gear although I used a #3 Camalot on the third pitch. Jun 7, 2010
Derek W  
A buddy and I tried this route today. It was his first lead, the first pitch was great...but was the second really a 5.6 going over that headwall??? I made it over after he tried way to the right of the second bolt, but was this where the route is supposed to go? If so the swing for the second is pretty sketchy after cleaning his last bolt. Any info would be great! Climb on! Jun 29, 2008