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Routes in Elevenmile Dome

Cheryl's Peril S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Counter Strike S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
EZ Street T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face Value S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Unknown, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Trails S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kathy's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Mike Johnson Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Miss Wyoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Grape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Tea Vicar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Sin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overleaf, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Repulsion Convulsion S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
South Face Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Bryan Becker, 1978.
Page Views: 2,963 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This long route is only protected by a handful of bolts, but all the hard spots are covered. It's a nice warmup for S. Face Direct.

I can't remember the rap (yeah, I'm worthless), but I think a 50m is fine.

Protection

6 draws and some nerve between runouts.
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
Start by walking 20' right along a ledge to first bolt, about 30' above ground. Good long pitch with a lot more holds/ledges than you can see from the ground. 1/2" and 1" cams useful for flake at mid-height. Oct 16, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
 
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
 
Should be renamed Batman!!!

I climbed this last fall (09') and grabbed a bat in the undercling 1/3- 1/2 of the way up. Amazingly, I somehow didn't fall. Apr 1, 2010
ET
5.8+
ET  
5.8+
This route is #7 on the photo. I would describe the protection as adequate but not heartwarming. A middlesize nut will add confidence. A 50m will definately not work. A 60m will get you to easy scrambling. It goes 5.8(R)+, or 5.9- depending on the guidebook. Jul 7, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.7+
Larry Shaw  
  5.7+
Seemed way easier than a .9. A 60m rope will reach the ground in the photo on route #6 but will not on route #7 which felt like a .8 to me. May 21, 2004
fun 5.9 face climbing on slightly slabbly rock with mostly good incut edges. WAnder past at least 7 if not 8 very good well placed bolts, first to the right then to the left etc. The crux is from the ground (rather scramble up 4th class 25 feet to a belay ledge) to when youre feet are just past the 3rd bolt. The runout sections were easier climbing. Route finding is the crux if you are trained to follow the chalk. oh and a 60 m rope makes it just fine, but a 50 wont come close. i promise that is correct. Apr 13, 2003
That is....belay me to the anchors and lower me back down :) May 21, 2002
Assuming I was on the correct route, a 50m rope isn't enough for the rap, nor is a 60m rope. I have a 60m rope and a rap from the anchors only got me down to the first bolt - thankfully you can basically walk off from there, but it isn't on the ground (note that my belayer had to move up to the first bolt to belay me all the way to the anchors. May 21, 2002