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Routes in Elevenmile Dome

Cheryl's Peril S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Counter Strike S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
EZ Street T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face Value S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Country for Old Men S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Unknown, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Trails S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I'm Lichen It S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jet Setter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kathy's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Mike Johnson Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Miss Wyoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Grape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Tea Vicar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Sin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overleaf, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Repulsion Convulsion S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Happy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,982 total · 29/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


The Overleaf is a nice trad route up the whole dome. Start on the left side of the dome and locate a right-facing dihedral, and follow this feature for a long pitch to a cable anchor w/chains about 200' up. The route continues up to the summit of the dome, or double-rope rap from the anchor.


Standard rack to #4 Friend.


Question about the fixed anchor at the top of the first pitch: is this anchor above the roof, or is it found by traversing right under the roof and then up the flake? A bolted anchor above the roof would be nice. Otherwise, you might have some burly rope drag for about 30 feet to a good anchor spot. Or, if you choose to belay right above the roof, using a little crack out left and the crack just above the roof, you end up being in your second's way as he/she is pulling the roof. Good route. Dec 11, 2001
The anchor is above the roof, put long slings on gear below the roof and you will not get rope drag going to the anchor in one pitch. There is also another bolted anchor past the roof out to the right on the face in a big dish. This is a bit lower than the anchor on O.L. if you do get rope drag. This may seem like pretty stout 5.8 to some people. Dec 27, 2001
Remember the roof moves being cool. The slab below the roof made me scratch my head a bit. Also, seem to recall some rope drag issue, but the belay could be set up easily anywhre after the roof. Jul 23, 2002
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
This is one of the best trad routes I've ever done. Great moderate climbing most of the way and bomber gear placments. That roof is pretty burly if you take it out straight up. Made me sketch a bit, but there's a nice chockstone you can sling just under the roof for some peace of mind. Didn't try the traverse out right, but it look significantly easier. This is one long pitch! Did it with a 50 m rope and my belayer had to climb a good portion of the lower route just so I could make it to the anchors. Man I gotta get me a 60m!!!!! May 5, 2003
I was not amazed by this climb but it's an ok way to summit. I would definately recommend a 60 meter rope and lots of long slings. I would try to do the climb in 2 pitches. For comfort you'll want a BD 3.5 and 4 cmas but ok with 3 and under.

The trick to the first pitch is to start your belay as high as possible. I would say go under right under the roof (5.9 possibly) and use 4ft at the pinacle of the roof to elimate drag. You'll need the 3.5 and 4 coming around the right side of the roof to the right sided dihedral/crack. Blow by the bolts to the right side and go all the way up the dihedral to a belay with some cable. Belay there, build one if you don't get all the way.

Second pitch ruins the route its runout (25ft) on super easy bathtubs. Belay just below at the summit. Walk off the back and turn left (north) and walk off the gully. Sep 11, 2003
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
The roof moves are fun and there is a thank god jug a foot over the lip. The roof moves were harder than the traverse right but the traverse seemed more sustained and runout near the top. Jun 12, 2004
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
The roof direct is definitely on the hard side of 5.8. Jun 30, 2004
Did the roof variation of this, which I would definately recommend. It has better moves, protection, and rope work. Pulling the roof itself is a little stiff, 5.8+ and out of character for the rest of the climb which goes 5.6-7 Jul 7, 2004
I really enjoyed the climb. It is great for newer climbers either for lead or seconding. I found that the roof moves were rather easy, maybe an 8, but I wouldnt say 8+, the moves are just a little comitting. I climbed up to the roof, brought up my second and then climbed around the roof. Someone left 2 well-placed nuts there, and I think they are pretty much fixed, so if you can't get the roof, then you can bail without leaving your own gear. I would say to rap off the cable pot hole sling, as the summet isn't that great, but if you do that you will need 2 ropes. May 13, 2005
Buff Johnson
Buff Johnson  
I wouldn't go into this climb with a 5.8 mindset. (I thought 2 stars @ 5.9)

The direct line up to the roof is a grade harder, expect a series of sustained 5.9 moves to get under the roof. I wouldn't consider this section to be similar in technical rating as other trad routes in the area, such as the Arch Rock Route. But this is still a decent route; just expect a little sandbagger section.

I would offer to do the walk-off as you can’t really see if someone is coming up the roof from the cable rap position & voice command can be difficult to hear. (Post edit 2007 - used 2x 60M ropes to the ground from the cable, the rap does not go over a leader; so I'd revise & say this descent is cool) Jan 21, 2006
Chris Mack
Chris Mack  
I would highly agree that the line that takles the roof head on is harder then 5.8. Would have to say mid .9ish. I would also say that there is definitely a right and a wrong way to tackle that roof, and if you do it the wrong way, it's going to feel way harder than it should. Jan 23, 2006
Buff Johnson
Buff Johnson  
Went back and redid the section on seconding & figured out what my problem was. I'll revise to go to 3 stars & 5.8+ for the direct line through the overhang, a physically great section for the crux, wonderfully fluid hand jams. A #5 is a piece you'll not regret bringing along. Jul 16, 2007
Eric Haye
Eric Haye   Boulder
I agree with Mark's last statement. I found getting to just below the roof to be a bit tricky. With knowing that rope drag would be an issue I chose to set up a belay at that point and then chose to finish going right (easier than it looks). If I get the chance to do it again, I would attempt the roof but definitely challenging for an 8+. Sep 30, 2007

My partner Tom led over the roof with no problems, however I couldn't get my sorry butt up it even with Tom pulling on the rope. Pulling myself up with nothing for my legs definitely seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Tom didn't find any anchors near the roof and climbed to the anchors at the top of the route. With communication issues and a cam not far above the roof, going around to the right was not an option for me. I anchored about 15 feet below the roof while Tom rappeled down to me from the top and just made it below the roof on the 60m rope. We then tied our two ropes together to rappel down to the road. I hope to get this one another try. Jun 29, 2008
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
In the UK, we would call this an "outcrop grade". Surely a harder rating would be given if it were on a longer route or protection weren't so good, as the move round the overlap is a real pig. Even in Yorkshire this would get VS 5a. Easy enough to belay on nuts / cams below the overhang to avoid rope drag on the crux, so fixed gear is unnecessary. May 8, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
Led with Sarah today. Challenging crux for me, but protected it with a #2 cam in the crack. Rested (hung) on the rope while I figured out the moves through the roof. Once I figured out the moves, it wasn't too bad for me. Sarah climbed it in tennis shoes :-] Oct 2, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Wow, 5.8+? I'm surprised that's the consensus! I thought getting up to and pulling over the roof would be at least 5.9 on here. It definitely stymied me for a while (I didn't fall). There's a great rest up underneath there though.... Jun 27, 2010
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
Awkward climbing with annoying rope management. Couldn't find a way to keep the rope from jamming at the roof. I even climbed down and unclipped the last 2 pieces before the roof and placed a cam right at the lip to try and keep it running smooth and it still jams. Didn't find this one very enjoyable. Moby Grape and some of the bolted lines are much more worthwhile. Jun 3, 2014
I climbed this a few weeks ago and am curious if anyone knows what the route is above the final Overleaf anchor on the big overhang at the top of The Dome. I saw a couple of solid-looking bolts (three? I believe) that lead up the overhang. Jun 16, 2015

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