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Routes in Elevenmile Dome

Cheryl's Peril S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Counter Strike S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
EZ Street T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face Value S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Unknown, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Trails S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kathy's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Mike Johnson Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Miss Wyoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Grape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Tea Vicar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Sin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overleaf, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Repulsion Convulsion S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
South Face Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,900 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Sep 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

On the Dome's west side is an obvious, low-angled, wide crack. Look for a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb the wide crack to the summit or, downclimb from an obvious ledge above the technical difficulties. This is the same ledge the other routes' walkoff. Downclimb slabs on the west side or go down a gully.

Protection

Standard rack, with a few wider pieces for the wide section.

Photos

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Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
This is the zig-zagging crack to the right of the wide, shrub-filled Kathy's crack. You start by climbing up some big buckets until where the crack begins. Pro is generally quite large in places. I would take at least a #3, #2, #1 and #0.75. Climb up and right, then the crack goes up straight up. Belay all the way where the angle tapers off and the crack heads sharp left. There is a little rock sitting next to the belay that fits snug against the rock. For pitch 2, you can go left below the traversing crack and get good pro at eye level. At some point, just head straight up unprotected all the way to where the wide Kathy's Crack system meets the roof. There is a crack penetrating the roof where you can step up and traverse off the rock face into the descent gully. Sep 25, 2016
climbnowworklater
Colorado Springs
 
climbnowworklater   Colorado Springs
 
Second the big gear comments. Although, I thought the route was super fun (if you like OWs) and not sure why it doesn't get more stars? Great line, solid rock...classic OW crack climbing at its best! Sep 23, 2015
Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
If this route is near what you lead comfortably, bring 4-5 pieces of at least 3in. Even a 70m rope will put you in a position to build a belay with large gear. Jun 12, 2007
Larry Shaw
  5.6
Larry Shaw  
  5.6
This is a fun route that doesn't see much traffic. Jun 17, 2004
The small pro on standard rack is not going to do much for you, this route is all crack with mostly moderate to large pro opportunities. You could even use some small Bros if you have them, or large cams. Reaching deeper into crack seems only option to place midsize pro, otherwise you'll want BIG stuff or runout. Sep 14, 2003