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Routes in Elevenmile Dome

Cheryl's Peril S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Counter Strike S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
EZ Street T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face Value S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Unknown, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Trails S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kathy's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Mike Johnson Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Miss Wyoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Grape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Tea Vicar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Sin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overleaf, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Repulsion Convulsion S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
South Face Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Stewart Green, 1979.
Page Views: 3,969 total, 20/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

On the far right side of the dome, locate this nice beginner sport/mixed route that is protected by 6 bolts, but also has some gear placements.

Low-angle, easy climbing, great friction. What more can you ask for?

Protection

About 8 draws and some stoppers and small cams.
Andrew Yon
Centennial, CO
 
Andrew Yon   Centennial, CO
 
Fun route. Easy climbing to first bolt, but it takes a few moves, so spotting the leader's not a bad idea. Well-bolted from there. Requires a 70m rope unless you want to downclimb the last 15 feet or so. Found out the hard way (aka - don't bring a 60m rope to a 70m rope party). Jun 6, 2016
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
5.6 ?? The steeper section is easy enough, but the slab above is quite thin. Oct 16, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Fun, fun. A little run-out, which makes it even more fun! May 12, 2010
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Good route. 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Crux is going over the "nose" -- actually thought this route (crux) was tougher than Moby Grape. Long pitch of 100+ feet to anchors, but the bolts are placed well for protection. Recommend a 70m rope if top roping or rappeling. (Note: some of the photos here are of EZ Street, so I've added 2 photos showing relation of Moby Grape, Happy Trails, and EZ Street.) Oct 25, 2008
Yes, those photos of the kid are of the route farther right of Happy Trails. That's the first pitch of EZ Street, a 3-pitch route that John Myers, Ed Russell and I put up in 1979 without bolts. Now there are 3 bolts on pitch 1, which is 5.4. Second pitch pulls the overhang above at 5.6 and also now has bolts. Third pitch climbs the upper headwall to the summit.

Happy Trails should have 6 bolts. Again, the three of us climbed the lower part of the route to the upper slab and then traversed up right to the flake belay for Jet Setter. Thanks to Mark Van Horn who bolted the whole line in 1994 and added the anchors under the roof. Jun 6, 2006
Alan Whittern
5.7 PG13
Alan Whittern  
5.7 PG13
There seems to be a discrepancy between the Green guidebook photo/route description for Happy Trails and the description and photos shown here. The Stewart Green book describes a route approx 30-40 feet right of Moby Grape. The photos here of Ricky and his climb are another 60-80 feet right of the Green book route. If the Green book route is Happy Trails, what is the route described here? I just did the Green route today, and it is not what I'm seeing pictures of here. The "Beta" photo matches Green but the "Description" photo is different. The Green Happy Trails has 7 or 8 bolts now with two fairly new bolts with three chain links on each. The "Nose" felt a little stiffer than 5.6 on lead. Jun 5, 2006
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
Nice route. Good beginner lead. Bolts are spaced far apart though, so be prepared. The cold shuts at the anchor are rusting, but the bolts themselves looked fine. Jul 9, 2005
Larry Shaw
  5.6
Larry Shaw  
  5.6
I seem to remember 6 or 7 draws. Fun climb though. Jun 17, 2004
I wanted to clarify the first ascent info on this route. I led the thing in 1979 with a handful of small nuts but did not climb up the final slab to today's anchors, but climbed up right to trad anchors and a block under the roof. The current line and the bolts were installed by Mark Van Horn in 1994, making this a well-protected sport lead rather than a sort of runout trad pitch. Apr 7, 2004
The route has 4 bolts, not six. Runout section atop to anchors may make new lead climbers quesy, there are some flakes near steep section, though, for small stoppers before the runout. It is a 5.6, IMHO, and low angle enough to keep most feeling okay. Nice route for sport intro. I wonder, Dave, if you were on Jet Setter instead? Sep 14, 2003
Disclaimer: unless you are a honed South Platte slabmaster this will feel a bit harder than 5.6. You can bring gear, but the only places it goes are the really easy sections where you won't be thinking about it anyway. A good climb. Dec 2, 2001