Type: Trad, 290 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 566 total · 3/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Jun 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This climb is located about 50' to the left of Moby Grape.

P1 (125') - Start at an arch that goes from right to left and ends about 1/2 way up the slabs above you. The arch is about 45 feet in height at the top. Stay in the arch as long as you can, placing pro; because there is no pro on the slab above the arch until you reach the steeper roof. After stepping out of the arch, climb straight up the slabs to the steeper roof. The slabs are about 40' of up to 5.4 climbing with no pro (R). At the roof, I took the path of least resistance traversing 10' feet right, up some cracks, then going left again back to the exposed big flakes. Climb up to a big grassy ledge to set your belay.

P2 (160') - Climb the beautiful hand crack angling to the left, and then head straight up to the big roof. Traverse under the roof right passing under a sculptured cave. Emerge from the cave and step right onto an arĂȘte. Follow a hand/fist crack, passing an old piton straight up to the large headwall. Use a couple of long slings on this pitch to avoid rope drag.

Descent: Traverse to your left (Southwest) along the ledges below the headwall over 4th class terrain until you reach a big gully with trees. You may want to belay your partner over this traverse. About 40 feet into the traverse, there are some anchor bolts, but they are not designed for rappelling.

Other:- At the 1st belay, it is possible to escape by down climbing left about 20' to some anchors that are 90' off the deck.- On the first pitch it looks like you can climb up to the steeper roof over easier terrain with good protection using a gully with cracks that begins about 10' left of Moby Grape.- The second pitch probably has other interesting variations.- I'm giving this climb 2.5 stars: 2 for the first pitch, and 3 for the second pitch.

Protection

Set of nuts, set of cams (small to 3"), and a couple of double slings.

Photos