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Routes in Elevenmile Dome

Cheryl's Peril S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Counter Strike S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
EZ Street T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face Value S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Country for Old Men S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Great Unknown, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Trails S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I'm Lichen It S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jet Setter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kathy's Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Mike Johnson Route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Miss Wyoming S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Grape T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Tea Vicar T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Sin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overleaf, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Repulsion Convulsion S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Happy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed 5.9 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Gregg Stevens, Larry C. Schubarth, April, 1978
Page Views: 9,285 total · 46/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


This is a really fun route and makes for a great first lead. Moby Grape is located near the right end of the dome in a large right facing corner.

Pitch 1: 120" 5.7 Begin with a few moves up the slab to reach the corner. Follow the corner for about 100 feet of fun stemming and jamming with perfect protection. Just below the anchors the crack peters out and the rock bulges. Face climb over the bulge on large holds and move up to the anchor below a large roof. Either Rap with two ropes or continue up for another pitch.

Pitch 2: 100" 5.6 Face climb up and left to avoid the roof. The climbing quickly becomes easy as you move up the slab. Continue until you reach a bolted anchor in a pod below the walk-off ledge.

Walk off to the climbers left and scramble down along the edge of the dome.


Nuts and a couple of cams up to #2 Camalot.

Loose Block Warning!

Per Preston Dennis: as of 4/17/17: there is a very loose, microwave-size rock halfway up the first pitch on the left side of the corner (most popular pitch) as of 4/17/17. Dislodge this rock, and it will tumble right on top of your belayer and possibly damage your rope as well.
Bryson Slothower  
Moby Grape is route #9 in the picture above

Apr 3, 2002
Great route but not for your first lead. I thought the pro was going to be better, according to the guide it's great. Good moves all up the first pitch. Pull through the crack in the roof above the first anchors, the best moves on the climb, then slip your way up easy, unprotected lichen slabs to the top ledges. The walk off is exsposed and kind of sucks. Jun 10, 2002
Bryson Slothower  
This was my first trad lead and I didn't own any cams yet, only nuts. I thought it was great........ Jul 19, 2002
Agree with Les on the walk off. It is relatively low 5 grad traversing, but if you slip it's a potentialy fatal ride all the way to the deck. Would advise staying roped up and on belay until you reach the hike down on the nortwest side. Aug 28, 2002
Dave Brower
cs co
Dave Brower   cs co
Do the roof ! it's wild pumping 5.10 "jugs" A classic finish to this great route ! Oct 19, 2002
The first pitch of this route is a great one if you're looking to take a beginner up a sweet toprope. It is possible to use a 60m rope, but I had to climb the first 15 feet or so of easy rock at the base of the route in order to belay for the toprope. Of course, that also means downclimbing from that point after you've rapped from the anchors. I didn't find it too tough at all. Nov 1, 2002
Wasn't Moby Grape a rock band in the seventies? Feb 4, 2004
Kris Carter
Kris Carter  
Great route, don't just do pitch 1 & 2 then walk off, head up the easy crack above pitch 2 anchors to the top! Fun little step from pitch 1 anchors to get around the roof. Wasn't up for the direct over the roof, but it looked doable. I stopped short of the pitch 2 anchors and put a long sling around a big boulder so I could see my 2nd come up. Another fun route at 11mile. Mar 30, 2004
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Fun first pitch, some loose rock half way up but a nice move to the anchors. Jun 17, 2004
Ryan Carlino
Ryan Carlino  
Good route up solid rock. Wasn't super hard, but definitely fun! There are lots of holds (on left wall or right face) and good stances to place pro. Bring 2 ropes to get down if you don't want to walk around. Apr 25, 2005
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Only one 60m rope is required if you want to rap from the anchors at the top of the first pitch. It will get you down to just above the ground from where you can easily pull the ropes. May 22, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
A 70m rope is useful for lowering or rapping. May 29, 2006
Nate Oakes  
Lots of rests available on the first pitch. Definitely worth doing if you're in the mood for a mellow climb. The downclimbing at the base isn't difficult if you're on a 60m rope. Aug 27, 2007
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Moby Grape is a rock group from the 60s! They are so old that I have an album of theirs that is monaural (not stereo for you ipod heads). Listen to "Hey Grandma". Aug 27, 2007
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
This is a nice route, but gear placements down low can be tough in the shallow crack. Sep 4, 2007
Larry C. Schubarth
colorado springs, colorado
Larry C. Schubarth   colorado springs, colorado
On the first ascent, Gregg dislodged a pretty large flake almost trashing me AND his brand new Purple rope!!! Sep 17, 2007

I found the first pitch to be a nice climb on the easy side of 5.7. The second pitch wasn't all that interesting and I wish we had just rappelled down and using the time on another route. Jun 29, 2008
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
Agree with Dave G. Really fun 1st pitch -- easy 5.7 Simple to protect. Crux just before the anchors. Set a top rope for followers. You need a 70m rope to set up a top rope from the bottom. Oct 25, 2008
Alex A
Alex A  
Looks better in the photo than it climbs. The 1st 25ft is good, some loose rock, dirt, good pro. May 6, 2010
Colorado Springs
Simon   Colorado Springs
1st pitch is great, good pro and fun climbing that's on the easier end of 5.7. 2nd pitch is of little interest, it's 5.2 bath tubs and jugs with a couple of 5.4 moves, that meander across the top half of the crag. Unless you want to practice working with a second on a (semi) hanging belay, just do pitch one and use your time on one of the other fun routes. Towards the end of the second pitch beware the hangerless bolt studs sticking out of the rock. They are a major trip hazard and it's on terrain easy enough to choose to be unroped. Sep 30, 2010
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Much, much easier than Happy Trails, the alleged 5.6 to the right. Oct 16, 2011
Paul Kaltenthaler
Colorado Springs
Paul Kaltenthaler   Colorado Springs
Great beginner trad route for the grade; take and handful of nuts off your rack, throw them at the crack and magnet! Jan 16, 2012
Did this route for the first time today. Fun, fun route. Nice rests, good pro, a couple of very minor thought provoking moments. The bulge/crux at the top is awesome. It protects pretty well with a #3 Camalot (blue), but it needs to be extended more than the other placements. Not sure why the beta say up to #2. I'm glad I had the #3 with me. Climb safe.... Aug 6, 2015
Ben D.
Ben D.   Colorado
A really enjoyable climb with a great finishing move! If you are doing this as a single pitch, a 70m rope just barely gets you back to the base. You can also TR Original Sin to the right from the same anchors, just clip the last few bolts of OS for directionals on your way back down. Aug 29, 2016
Preston Dennis
Granby CO
Preston Dennis   Granby CO
  • **DANGER*** There is a crazy loose, microwave-size rock halfway up the first pitch on the left side of the corner (most popular pitch) as of 4/17/17. Dislodge this rock, and it will tumble right on top of your belayer and possibly damage your rope as well.
Apr 17, 2017
Jake Web
Denver, CO
Jake Web   Denver, CO
We got lost or something. Never saw a bolted anchor for pitch 2. Also, pitch two was runout and very PG-13 feeling. I think we just did it wrong.

I ended up at the base of a roof (looked 5.10, or 11, or 12). We were only looking to do 5.7 today, so I built my own anchor, and we then did a traversing pitch (5.0) to get to the anchors of the overleaf, where we walked off.

That said, there is an amazing hero roof crack at the very beginning of pitch 2 (Eldo 5.7). I think some people traverse left, but going over the roof made me feel absolutely bad-ass! I'd do it again just for the first pitch, and that roof!

I'd like to know where this supposed anchor is for the second pitch! May 14, 2018

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