Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Gregg Stevens, Larry C. Schubarth, April, 1978
Page Views: 12,615 total · 47/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a really fun route and makes for a great first lead. Moby Grape is located near the right end of the dome in a large right facing corner.

Pitch 1: 120" 5.7 Begin with a few moves up the slab to reach the corner. Follow the corner for about 100 feet of fun stemming and jamming with perfect protection. Just below the anchors the crack peters out and the rock bulges. Face climb over the bulge on large holds and move up to the anchor below a large roof. Either Rap with two ropes or continue up for another pitch.

Pitch 2: 100" 5.6 Face climb up and left to avoid the roof. The climbing quickly becomes easy as you move up the slab. Continue until you reach a bolted anchor in a pod below the walk-off ledge.

Walk off to the climbers left and scramble down along the edge of the dome.

Protection Suggest change

Nuts and a couple of cams up to #2 Camalot.

Loose Block Warning! Suggest change

Per Preston Dennis: as of 4/17/17: there is a very loose, microwave-size rock halfway up the first pitch on the left side of the corner (most popular pitch) as of 4/17/17. Dislodge this rock, and it will tumble right on top of your belayer and possibly damage your rope as well.