Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Side

Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Turkeys S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B
Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deal, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Spoon S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mike Johnson
Page Views: 2,360 total · 14/month
Shared By: pancho on Aug 14, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


36 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description [Edit]

As you enter the Slash via the short slab/gully, this climb is one of two that ascend the steep wall on your right. The climb on the right is The Deal (5.11d), and 10 feet left is The Candyman.

Located above boulder problems in the Slash, this short climb relies completely on pockets to reach the anchors. There is not a single crux, and if you can boulder to the first pin you can do this climb. The only thing to think about is falling while clipping the third pin, there is a chance you might hit the wall behind you. If you are worried about this, just rest at the second pin, as the climbing above is easy unless you are pumped from the first section.

Protection [Edit]

3 pins to a 2 pin cable anchor.

Photos

Larry Shaw
  5.10d
Larry Shaw  
  5.10d
Nice pocket pulling, weird at first trying to figure out which pockets are good or bad. Almost all of them are filled with sand. Just a bit runnout to the third bolt but reasonable. Sep 2, 2004
Runout by Shelf standards perhaps, but very well protected by garden standards. Sep 6, 2004
Candyman has new anchors. Stewart Green and Brian Shelton replaced the old pitons and worn cable with stainless steel bolts and descending rings. The first piton, which fell out 6 years ago, was also replaced with a modern bolt anchor. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware. Jun 8, 2005
Rik A.  
About that new first bolt that was put on the route. It SUCKS. I could almost pull it out with a good tug, and currently removed the hanger so no one will trust that piece of #@$% BOLT. If you were to fall on it, it would pull out and produce and groud fall so.... skip it and clip the old piton that is half way out. Just like it has been for years. Oct 24, 2005
Dan Dalton
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Dan Dalton   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
The first bolt has been re-done and is much better now. The piton is gone. Fairly safe, except for the slight runout to the last bolt. Make sure to rest before clipping the 4th bolt and moving on. Oct 4, 2007
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
This is one of the funnest routes in the Garden!!! Perfect, sandy pocket pulling. Aug 16, 2008
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Sa-weet! Sick of the slabby stuff? Want some pocket pulling reminiscent of shelf? do this! May 12, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fantastic climb! Great movement, but choose your holds wisely.... Jul 22, 2011
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Hidden but great. So great. The best way to get around the runout is to just stem a little, but then you're set. Just watch out for sand (like always) near the top. Also, give it a few days after heavy rain to dry out. Sep 8, 2013
cslice
Longmont, CO
cslice   Longmont, CO
Anyone have any info on the third piton which, if I remember right, protects the crux of the route? It looks to be sticking out a little more than I'd like. It's not loose, but my understanding is they are supposed to be in the rock at least 75 percent, if not a lot more. Oct 20, 2013
James Tilton
Cortez, CO
 
James Tilton   Cortez, CO
 
One of the best routes in the Garden in my opinion. Rarely sees traffic and stays cooler in the summer. If you're looking for a good workout from just a couple of runs up a route, this is a great choice: short and pump! Jun 23, 2014

More About Candyman

Printer-Friendly