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South Gateway Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in South Gateway Rock

East Side 0 / 15 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

West Side 7 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Elevation:	6,035 ft
GPS:	38.8778, -104.88045 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	77,599 total · 289/month
Shared By:	Andrew Gram on Aug 30, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures Details

The 2023 seasonal climbing closures and they are currently in place.

They are the same as for 2022 and 2021.

Kindergarten/Gray Rock

2018-23 Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

2023 Closure info from GOG staff.

2023 Closure photo from GOG staff.

North Gateway

From Bret Tennis, GOG, Park Operations Administrator: North Gateway Rock expanded raptor nesting closure. Requested to post. This applies for 2023 as it did for 2018-2022.

Old info:

Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.

Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

2020-22 Gateway Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

2018-23 Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Seasonal Raptor Closures. Provided by the GOG City Staff.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.

Closures as of June 5, 2019:

The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.

2019 Raptor Climbing Closures. From: Larry, City Staff, Office 719-219-0108.

The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.

2019 Gray Rock/Kindergarten Rock Raptor Closures. From: Larry, City Staff, Office 719-219-0108.

Continued climbing closures from 2018:

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.

The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.

The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.

Description

The large rock formation just north of North Gateway Rock is called South Gateway Rock. There is a lot of good and very varied climbing here. The Drug Wall stays in the shade most of the time and has one easy and several hard slab routes of very high quality. There are also good easy to hard crack climbs up to 3 pitches long, and a nice toproping area.

Getting There

Walk past North Gateway Rock from the main parking area. South Gateway is the very large rock formation just across the paved trail.

All chalk and chalk substitutes are not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that all chalk (calcium carbonate) and chalk substitutes are prohibited in the park due to visual impact starting in 2021.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

Rattlesnakes

Per Cody Cook: watch for rattlers.

26 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Gateway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 99 ● Silver Spoon Sport E Side
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 151 ● West Point Crack Trad 3 pitches W Side
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 8 ● Tutor Sport E Side
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 154 ● Crescent Corner Sport 2 pitches E Side
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 154 ● Credibility Gap Sport 2 pitches W Side
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 17 ● The Fixer Sport 2 pitches E Side
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 4 ● Sign Of The Times Sport E Side
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 102 ● Mighty Thor Sport E Side
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 18 ● Cocaine Sport E Side
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 41 ● Candyman Sport E Side
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 20 ● Rocket Fuel Sport E Side
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 8 ● Pure Energy Sport E Side
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 3 ● Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure Sport E Side
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 13 ● The Deal Sport E Side
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 11 ● Kor's Korner Trad 2 pitches W Side