Elevation: 6,035 ft
GPS: 38.878, -104.88 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 55,478 total · 240/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Aug 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Lifted: 2020 Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The large rock formation just north of North Gateway Rock is called South Gateway Rock. There is a lot of good and very varied climbing here. The Drug Wall stays in the shade most of the time and has one easy and several hard slab routes of very high quality. There are also good easy to hard crack climbs up to 3 pitches long, and a nice toproping area.

Getting There

Walk past North Gateway Rock from the main parking area. South Gateway is the very large rock formation just across the paved trail.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Gateway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 84
Silver Spoon
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 136
West Point Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 8
Tutor
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 130
Crescent Corner
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 135
Credibility Gap
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
The Fixer
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Sign Of The Times
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 89
Mighty Thor
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Cocaine
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Candyman
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
Rocket Fuel
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
The Deal
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 10
Kor's Korner
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Silver Spoon E Side
 84
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
West Point Crack W Side
 136
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 3 pitches
Tutor E Side
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport
Crescent Corner E Side
 130
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Credibility Gap W Side
 135
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
The Fixer E Side
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Sign Of The Times E Side
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mighty Thor E Side
 89
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cocaine E Side
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Candyman E Side
 40
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Rocket Fuel E Side
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure E Side
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Deal E Side
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kor's Korner W Side
 10
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Gateway Rock »

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