Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

The large rock formation just north of North Gateway Rock is called South Gateway Rock. There is a lot of good and very varied climbing here. The Drug Wall stays in the shade most of the time and has one easy and several hard slab routes of very high quality. There are also good easy to hard crack climbs up to 3 pitches long, and a nice toproping area.

Getting There

Walk past North Gateway Rock from the main parking area. South Gateway is the very large rock formation just across the paved trail.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

24 Total Climbs

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Location: South Gateway Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Gateway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 71
Silver Spoon
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 122
West Point Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 8
Tutor
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 111
Crescent Corner
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 123
Credibility Gap
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Sign Of The Times
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 75
Mighty Thor
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Cocaine
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
Candyman
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Rocket Fuel
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
The Deal
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 8
Kor's Korner
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Silver Spoon E Side
 71
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
West Point Crack W Side
 122
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 3 pitches
Tutor E Side
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport
Crescent Corner E Side
 111
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Credibility Gap W Side
 123
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Sign Of The Times E Side
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mighty Thor E Side
 75
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cocaine E Side
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Candyman E Side
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Rocket Fuel E Side
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Deal E Side
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kor's Korner W Side
 8
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Gateway Rock »

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Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Too much beer when I wrote this....

Switch North and South for the entire rock description. Thanks for correcting me, Darin. Aug 31, 2001
Remember, Andrew - the crack comes AFTER posting, not before. ;) Sep 6, 2001
In mid-May, 13 Colorado Springs climbers closed off several of the social trails that access the Drug Wall base on the northeast side of South Gateway Rock. The new access trail to the cliff-base is a short path that leads to the base of Crescent Crack. Follow the cliff-base east from here to Silver Spoon and the Slice bouldering area. The deeply cut trails below Silver Spoon were filled in with brush and rocks. Do not use these old trails so they can rehabilitate.

The Colo Spgs Park & Rec Dept wants less trails to access this and other climbing areas in the Garden. The trails will be designated with city signage in the future. Look for new access trails to the west side of South Gateway, including West Point Crack and Credibility Gap, as well as marked trails to the Finger Face and Cowboy Book Crack area.

If you are interested in giving some energy back to the climbing community, please contact me to get on the mailing list for the next Garden Climber Trail Day. May 23, 2004
Does anybody know anything about the climb just right of the first pitch of West Point Crack? The line ascends an overhang and then up a fairly easy jug section to another steep crimpy section before pulling a final set of flakes to the single piton anchor - 4 bolts + the piton and link anchor. Sep 9, 2004
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
Joel, it sounds like you're referring to the Indian Head route, which continues above the piton, hugging basically the left side of the white rock where the white rock meets the red rock. The upper portion climbs up sort of a groove, which you can see from below. The route is named after the formation of the Indian Head which is formed by the white rock, and shows the profile of an Indian looking to the north - obvious if looking from a distance. FA was done by Steve Hong, Ed Webster, and Earl Wiggins in the '70s. The climb has probably seen few ascents as the upper portion looks quite loose.

The bottom of this climb is also shared by the Pipe Route, which traverses right at the top of the first flake, belays on top of a pillar, then takes a second pitch up to the saddle in the white rock. I'll add this route description to the database. Sep 24, 2008