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Routes in East Side

Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Turkeys S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B
Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deal, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Spoon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson and Bob D' Antonio, 1983
Page Views: 1,509 total, 7/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This route is located on the east side of South Gateway Rock on the Drug Wall. The fastest way to get there is to park at the main parking area on the north side of the loop. Rocket Fuel will be on the left side of the cement path just before you get to the Twin Spires formation. The route works its way up the slab to a face climb left of the blocky roofs that make up Crescent Corner. Also left of Might Thor (seam next to Crescent Corner).

Difficult slab/thin edge climbing at the bottom to a pumpy face climb up pockets before the ledge anchor.

This is a Garden of the Gods classic climb.

Protection

7 or 8 bolts to a cable anchor.

Photos

Wyatt Peck  
 
As of 6/11/16, there are no sport anchors at the top of this route. It is possible that there are cable anchors hidden somewhere in the grassy ledge near the top of the slab, but anything in there would most likely be unusable. We ended up having to climb over to the anchors of Mighty Thor (great climb, btw) which is about 30 feet from the last bolt on Rocket Fuel. Not fun. Note: if you do this, you are most likely going to run out of rope to clean the route, so clean as many bolts as you can, then lower into gully on the left side of this route, swap belayers, and clean the route from the bottom up. Then rappel down the gully. Jun 12, 2016
pancho  
Another option is to do what I did: Lead Mighty Thor, then lower down over this route (or any of the three routes with equally high pins: The Fixer, Pure Energy, Rocket Fuel) and clip the first pin. Pull the rope carefully and the rope should stay clipped to the first pin.

GREAT climb. I absolutely love slab climbing, and the first 60 feet of Rocket Fuel and Pure Energy are as good as it gets for sandstone. The headwall is tricky, but if you follow the pockets on the right, it seems only to be hard 10 I would guess.

The slab portion of this climb would be rated 5.8 if it were granite! Aug 16, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.11b
Larry Shaw  
  5.11b
30 or so feet to the first pin. There were several pin lines and I went up the furthest right line. It only had two pins to the headwall and thin slab in the middle. The headwall makes the climb and is tons of fun with good feet....man I hate garden slab :) May 28, 2004
Jon Cannon  
 
This route is concentrated evil.

Whomever declared that it has three distinct personalities was spot on in their assessment. The climbing on the upper headwall was a bit more difficult, IMO, but that's perhaps because I was beat by the time I got up to it. Oct 20, 2003
I am just now getting around to my "tick list" and putting my two cents in on CB. I climbed this with Darin over Labor Day weekend and I just have a few comments to add. The beta is very accurate. The anchors are the same as Mighty Thor and you can rap the route with a 60m rope with a few feet to spare on each end.

From what I saw the runout to the 1st pin was just that: really, really run out. This climb changed "personalities" about three different times. The bottom is fairly moderate, standard GoG slab, unprotected but not impossible. The middle is easily the crux. Your slab skills better be sharpened on this section. Once you get under the headwall, you get into the "gym" section. Face climbing on pockets and the standard slopey edges gets you up and over the ledge. A few more edgy moves gets you the anchor.

If you are looking for a good way to try this route, I suggest the following: Lead up Mighty Thor (awesome route), have a second clean that route. Put draws on the anchors up top, rap off the draws. You can then TR Rocket Fuel. Worked well for Darin and I when we got on this really fun route. Definitely worth the attempt. Adios! Oct 10, 2003
Once you get to the first pin, this climb seems quite well-protected and looks like fun. However, I find it interesting that there is no mention of the healthy run to the first pin (even by Garden standards). While I have come to expect such runouts at The Garden, my tail was placed securely between my legs as I backed off of this one, finding mandatory, 5.8+/5.9, insecure, slab moves well off the deck and well below the first pin. Perhaps I took the wrong path, or there used to be another pin here, or I somehow missed a protection opportunity. Could be that my spirit is just weak. Either way, heads up on this one. Jul 26, 2002
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
Thirty year old iron? It says the first ascent was done in 1983. I'm confused. Jan 16, 2002
It's worth mentioning that at least as of a few years ago, this was a safe, fun lead. There are pins all over the face, and as long as you trust 30 year old iron, you'll be stoked. Nov 16, 2001