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Routes in East Side

Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Turkeys S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B
Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deal, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Spoon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport
FA: Murray Judge and Gugi Rylegis, 1979
Page Views: 4,036 total, 20/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This route is located on the east side of South Gateway Rock on the Drug Wall. The fastest way to get there is to park at the main parking area on the north side of the loop. Mighty Thor will be on the left side of the cement path just before you get to the Twin Spires formation. The route follows the seam to the left of the blocky roofs that make up Crescent Corner.

The climb follows the seam for a ways then moves to the face with a reaching crux move.

Protection

10 bolts to a cable anchor.
Graham Montgomery
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10c
Graham Montgomery   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10c
Climbed this morning. Onsighted the route but was super gripped by the rusty pitons. There are a lot of them, but their condition is iffy. There are so many that I probably would have only clipped every other one if I trusted them, but I wanted the redundancy for sure. The anchor is pretty fresh looking stainless steel w/ good looking rap rings. The bolt on the left is a bit spinny and could use tightening if anyone has the tools feels inclined. Jun 14, 2017
EricJochens
Co Springs, CO
EricJochens   Co Springs, CO
Crux move looks worse than it is. I slipped while hanging off my right hand on the ledge jug only to realize that if you move your hand 6 inches right it is bomber. Safe clean fall if you miss it. Aug 30, 2010
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
5.10b
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
5.10b
Top-roping can be done easily by redirecting the rope through a quickdraw clipped to a fixed pin above the crux move. Aug 15, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Cool climb! Harder for shorter people for sure. I'm 5'8" and it involved some trickery to get to the jug, while my partner who was a little above 6' cruised it. Forget the cams. there are plenty of bolts. Too many perhaps. May 12, 2009
Taylor Tolle
Colorado
 
Taylor Tolle   Colorado
 
Loved the route, I took my very first lead fall here. Once you pass the crux you have a beautiful, sidewalk-sized ledge to roll on to but with fiew handholds to get there.... The bomer took me 25-30 feet past the crux with a single four letter word echoing down to the Sunday morning tourists "I apologize". I do not recomend top roping Thor, the rope pulls you off to the right and away from the holds. Mar 5, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
This is a fun and well-protected route (after reaching the first pin of course). If you don't have 14 draws, there are several spots where you can securely back-clean your last clip. Oct 2, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
If you plan to send bring 14 + draws and maybe a #3 TCU for the start. Don't forget your other rope, well protected crux, awesome. Aug 5, 2008
Joe Mokrycki
Lincoln, Nebraska
Joe Mokrycki   Lincoln, Nebraska
I hate to say it but I busted a hold off the start of Mighty Thor. Somewhere around the 25 ft mark there is now a gaping flat spot where a beautiful blocky chunk used to be. It was a great hold for your left hand, but when I got my foot up on it it busted, depositing me into the arms of my belayer. Apr 14, 2008
Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
There's a bail quickdraw up on this route as of today. FYI. Mar 29, 2008
Thanks, guys! That frayed cable/random sling/old piton set up *may* have been safe, but it never looked it. Jun 9, 2005
Mighty Thor has new anchors! Stewart Green and Brian Shelton replaced the old pitons (including some stamped 1952) with three 5-inch-long stainless steel sleeve bolts with stainless steel descending rings. Many thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the new anchors. The old ones were definitely a hazard with a frayed cable and brittle webbing. Jun 8, 2005
Larry Shaw
  5.10c
Larry Shaw  
  5.10c
Noticed about 4 of the pins were bent. I'm 6'2 and had enough wingspan to reach the bucket semi gracefully. I feel sorry for shorter climbers on this one. The cable anchor has been backed up by webbing and is safe. May 28, 2004
Most of those cable anchors seem to be placed as triangles. Sep 6, 2003
Chris R  
Cable anchors are in bad shape; one of the cable threads has snapped, and the remaining two or three aren't far behind. Also, the cable is placed in the "triangle of death" fashion. I left a short blue 1" sling equalized through 2 of the 3 pins, that being all I had at the time. Be cafeful.... Sep 5, 2003
The scariest part about this climb is the heinous american triangle for the anchors. I say that whoever wants to climb it cut off the frayed cable and bring a couple pieces of webbing with them and rig the anchors correctly. The frayed cable is destroying the piece of webbing on there and would destroy any other webbing someone might put on it too. Aug 7, 2003
Explore them I did as I took a pretty major whipper whilst attempting to clip the second bolt. It actually wasn't the stealth, however, instead my flight having its beginnings in the left hand that popped off of a pinch. A bad fall it was, too, for as I put my hand out in front of me the rope found itself wedged between it and the rock and glided along my palm giving me an unforgetable burn. Ouch! This route is amazing and tricky. I also love that old Garden drilled angle for pro thing. You'd think people would wise up and stop climbing in the Garden, eh? Not bloody likely! Jul 17, 2003
Jon Cannon
  5.10c
Jon Cannon  
  5.10c
I think I counted you using thirteen draws on this route, Darin. It definitely behooves the leader to NOT clean the last three draws or so of this route, as a fall at the crux implicates a pretty good-sized pendulum (translation: the second would have a devil of a time getting back on route).

The crux move is in the middle of a fantastic sequence, when the main headwall begins to loom menacingly over the intrepid climber. You're gonna explore the limits of Stealth rubber on this one! Jun 5, 2002
It might be as much as 14 QDs. Half the fun of this great route is dealing with rope drag and avoiding Z-clips through and above the crux section. Not that I minded the extra pro ... Jun 2, 2002
Some key beta for this one: First of all, Mighty Thor takes every inch of a 60m rope to TR. 2 - For some reason, I seem to remember that you need 14 quicks/slings to lead it, although I've only TR'ed it, so I'm not sure. 3 - If you're 8' tall, you should be all over this route. That crux move is an off-balance, reachy son of a... Apr 26, 2002
As I remember it the first couple bolts are a lot of fun and require a good bit of balance as you smear up the seam. The climb gets its rating fromt he crux moves at the white headwall above the seam. It it easier the taller you are but there are good spots to rest in before and after the crux that helped me a lot. From the bolt above the crux traverse up and left to get to the anchors. The traverse presents a minor penduluming danger but thankfully has fairly good footing to the ledge with the anchors. Nov 26, 2001