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Routes in East Side

Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Turkeys S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B
Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deal, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Spoon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Paul Lanz, 1988
Page Views: 1,087 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Sep 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This climb is located in the middle of the Gash, about 50 feet left of Candyman. It is a steep and sustained sport climb protected by fixed pins. The rock looks loose, but it's actually decent. From the ground, this climb looks pretty scary. It's about 20 feet to the 1st pin, then there's another somewhat runout section between the 3rd and 4th pins, combined with the sandy nature of the feet since it rarely gets climbed, also the fact that the walls are sort of narrow here, and if you blew a hold or had a bad fall, you could potentially hit the opposite wall. Nonetheless, I think it's just as good or even better than Candyman, and if more people climb it, it would probably be even better.

Next time I'll replace the old webbing at the anchor.

If anyone has any info on the name or FA party, please let me know and I'll update the description. I'm guessing maybe FA by Eric Johnson, Mike Johnson, or Earl Wiggins? But definitely just guessing.

Protection

5 drilled angles. 2 drilled angles for anchor. Anchor needs new webbing and lowering rings.
Route name is: Sign of the Times.
FA. Paul Lanz / put up in 1988. Sep 9, 2014

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