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Routes in East Side

Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Turkeys S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B
Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deal, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Spoon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Larry Shubarth & Greg Stevens, '81? Stewart Green & Helmut, '72?
Page Views: 1,145 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is a fun, but run-out slab climb right of Silver Spoon. Start in same vicinity as Silver Spoon, clip its first bolt, then continue calmly up to the drilled angle above you. Don't fall before clipping the piton, or you will deck. The climbing isn't too hard through much of the run-out, but the move just below the pin will get your attention, considering what's below you. Continue up to the Silver Spoon anchor. The route is easily top-roped after leading Silver Spoon, and not recommended as a lead unless you are sure you won't blow it.

Location

This route climbs the slab that Silver Spoon is located on and shares its first bolt and anchor. Descend by rappelling down the gully from a 2-pin anchor.

Protection

1 bolt, 1 drilled piton. 2 drilled pin anchor.

Photos

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Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Thanks for your input guys. I took the FA info from Mark's Soft Touch guide. Still a nice climb! Sep 24, 2008
Larry C. Schubarth
colorado springs, colorado
 
Larry C. Schubarth   colorado springs, colorado
 
The route that Gregg and I assumed was a first ascent was supposed to be the bottom half of what was later named "There Goes the Neighborhood", which after trashing my ankles flying off the lip, left it to friends to finish. Also, we started just to the left of the descent gully and followed a shallow groove/dihedral straight up to where I drilled the angle pin. Too bad so many top-ropers have erased/damaged that nice slab. Tooter-a device for snorting cocaine. Sep 23, 2008
I did the first ascent of this route in 1972 shortly after we did Silver Spoon. Started just right of Silver Spoon, placed a bad bad 1/4-inch bolt (still there but no hanger) and climbed the route, placing one piton. Never named it or placed any other gear in it. My second, a guy named Helmut, cleaned the piton. Sep 22, 2008