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Routes in East Side

Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Turkeys S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B
Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deal, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Spoon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Webster, Leonard Coyne, July 31, 1977
Page Views: 1,036 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ken Heiser on Dec 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This route is located on the Drug Wall of South Gateway Rock. It is the line of pitons up the left side of the slab that holds "Pure Energy, and "Rocket Fuel".

Begin this horrifying mankfest below the line of pitons and climb more or less straight up the face. At first the climbing is easy, but at about 40 feet, there is a section of mandatory 5.8/.9 slabbing with no pro. In this section, I touched a ledge/handhold which crumbled like a sugar cookie and promptly filled all of my footholds with sand. After going up down and around and up and down, I finally arrived at the first piton feeling really lucky to be alive. The climb goes up and then does a rising traverse up and left from here following the pitons. The climbing is difficult friction and edging on holds that have the constitency of sugar cookies. I remember doing one cruxy sequence using a hold that felt a grainy sandy wafer/cracker that would crunch any second. There is an optional #4 Camalot placement in a pocket, but it takes away a foothold. There is one more cruxy section out towards the end of the traverse on very steep, sandy smearing. After the hard bit, go up a short 10a headwall and then up extremely loose chossy 4th class to the anchor above the slab.

I felt extremely glad to be back on the ground after this one. My partner did not want to follow this route and thought it was stupid climbing on holds that crumble when you touch them.

I gave this route 2 stars for pure scariness, mankiness, and overall unique horrifying experience. Have fun ;-P

Protection

Very serious runout to the first piton with mandatory 5.8/5.9 climbing on crumbly sandy friction. Then 5 drilled pitons that range from angles to really old look ring pins. It is difficult to say how good this protection is due to the rock quality.

Addendum: The Fixer's P1 has new anchors as of July, 2005. Brian Shelton, Stewart Green, Jason and CJ replaced the 2 old pitons in the belay pothole with 2 modern stainless steel 1/2" bolts and hardware.

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Graham Montgomery
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
Graham Montgomery   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
Climbed this back in 15 on accident. Was looking for Thor and in a rush. I'm glad I was expecting 10 climbing or else I would have been more sketched out than I already was. Not many pitons, and they are OLD. The anchors are way above you up a 4th class in the little "cave". A 70m rope rappel will leave you just a few feet from the bottom on the slab for an easy downclimb. Jun 13, 2017
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a PG13
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a PG13
I agree with Phil regarding the well-protected crux and not falling in the runouts, but I'm wondering if this thing has cleaned up recently. Only used a couple scary holds through the pin line; everything in the runouts was solid although I had some trepidation with the lichen-covered holds. By Garden standards, this route is pretty solid and probably .9+, but I can be happy with calling it a .10. Great off-balance sequence through the crux! Jul 22, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10b PG13
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10b PG13
Ughhhh. I jumped on this climbing without looking here and found a pretty manky climb. Everything becomes crumbly and loose once you clip the first pin thing, and even then I was too sketched to take a fall. I girth hitched one pin that was about a third of the way out, and probably could've done the same with a few others. Also, there are significant runouts to the first bolt and after the 5th to the anchors. I clipped the last one and just kinda kept going up, as there are no real indicators of where the anchors are. Falling on either of these parts is not an option. Luckily, the crux is well protected with pins that I would not even want to take on.

You can rap from the top with a 60m and either go to the anchors of silver spoon, or downclimb chopped steps in the gully. Maybe 20 feet of 5.3 moves. May 13, 2009
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
A 70m rope leaves you about 5-10 feet off the ground when rappelling, but it's easy to down-climb from there. If you extend the anchor a little, it works just barely for top-roping, but still tie a knot in the end of your rope to be safe. Sep 27, 2008
Chris Mack
  5.10a/b PG13
Chris Mack  
  5.10a/b PG13
Sure thing Phil, I can see that way being harder, but if you climb this on the right of the pins, you HAVE to be off route.

I can see climbing it this way, but I would have to file it under strange, contrived variations. As I am thinking about it now, I think Soft Touch lists the variation, but still, I think it's whack. Not to mention that the best way (everyone's "best" is different I know) to enter the groove is from the left. Climbing right would involve some weird traversing nonsense, and I would be wondering how easy it would be to even reach those pins from that side.

Just my $0.02

Peace! Aug 23, 2006
phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
If you stay climber's left of the pitons, then the route is 10a. Stay right and you will find the 11a. I hope this eliminates any confusion. Jun 21, 2006
Chris Mack
  5.10a/b PG13
Chris Mack  
  5.10a/b PG13
Whoa!

I mean absolutely no harm by this, and I do not mean to insult anyone, but there is NO WAY this thing is 5.11. The friction/balance moves before the groove are the crux, and they are very solid 5.10 moves. It might be .10b, but .11a?

I would say that the riff-raff eliminator runout to the start on this route, Pure Energy, and Rocket Fuel is pretty bad even by Garden standards (or any standards for that matter). I guess it keeps things interesting though. I climbed it with the first pin pre-clipped and didn't feel a bit of shame. Don't blow this slab, it's too bumpy to slide all the way down, so you are going to the hospital if you come off.

Oh and Stu, thanks for the anchors up top. They rule. You're the f...in' man. Jun 9, 2006
The Fixer has new anchors as of July, 2005. Brian Shelton, Stewart Green, Jason and CJ replaced the 2 old pitons in the belay pothole with 2 modern stainless steel 1/2" bolts and hardware. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for supplying the new anchors. Jul 15, 2005
It's really not an 11a. Originally rated a 10b, and I'd agree with that. Also, it's scary but not horrible. You can climb Crescent Corner and the like, then clip the first bolt on your way down if it freaks you out.

Good climb, probably see a lot less traffic with all the new similiar, better protected routes at Red Rocks. Feb 12, 2005