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Routes in East Side

Candyman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cocaine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Turkeys S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Corridor Traverse, The V4 6B
Crescent Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Deal, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fixer, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Thor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ninety-Nine Per Cent Pure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pure Energy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket Fuel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sign Of The Times S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Spoon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
There Goes The Neighborhood S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tutor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport
FA: Leonard Coyne, Ken Sims, Ed Webster, 1977
Page Views: 2,311 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris R on Sep 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Classic Garden friction climb. This line is on the left side of the Drug Wall. Start left of Silver Spoon, trend up and left on mostly easy slab towards the low end of a funky horizontal corner--step over this corner. There isn't much, if any, psychological pro you can sink before the first pin. Once that pin is achieved, though, pro is adequate. Keep moving up and slightly left past another pin or two to a friction move straight up. The tricky part of this line are the traverse moves. The line isn't direct from this point--you will step up and left again and clip a pin (use a long sling on this one), then swing back right and up on thin holds. Aim straight up for a small, right-facing flake that leads to a belay ledge and fixed chain anchors. Descent by rappel or (not recommended) downclimb the gully to the climbers right. Double ropes to the ground, unless you single-rope rappel down the gully to the Silver Spoon anchors and then to the ground from there. This is a fun and creative line for the friction feet, crimpy hold masochist. Variation: instead of the left-then-right traverse at mid-route, go straight up past a pin at 11b-ish.

Protection

Drilled angles. First pin is a good way off the deck, but the climbing to get to it is fairly easy. Bring a couple long slings to ease rope drag.

Photos

mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.10d
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.10d
Very balancy. I ended up accidently pushing left and squeezing across routes onto the next over. Not really a fun route. Jul 2, 2010
Michael Murphy
  5.10d
Michael Murphy  
  5.10d
I have to agree with the guidebooks on the rating: 5.10d. The history in the Soft Touch III book gives it an 5.11-. Aug 13, 2006
Cocaine has a new 3-bolt anchor. Stewart Green and Brian Shelton pulled out the funky 3-piton anchor and replaced it with modern stainless steel bolts and hardware. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for the new safe gear! Jul 15, 2005
Chris R
 
Chris R  
 
A 60m rope will reach the ground, provided you rap into the Gash.

Also, my original beta post from 2 yrs. ago confused me after re-reading it. Having done the line again last night, here's a better try: From the first pin, move up and keep trending left. Upon reaching the left-most pin, clip it with a long runner, and traverse straight right, into a small right-facing corner, then cruise upwards to the anchors.

I always enjoy this line. Seems to require a great deal more thought and contemplation than your average climb. Jul 21, 2003
I'm going on memory here, and it's been awhile, but...

Is the third bolt right at the base of a short headwall? If that's the spot I'm thinking of, you can either go straight up the bulge at 11+ or so, or traverse right into a groove thingy at easy 11. Does that sound right? I believe the bulge was added after the FA as a harder variation, but again, I'm just going on memory here. Both ways are great fun.

If you finish the pitch, do the 2nd pitch and summit as well. The 2nd pitch is fun and much easier, but a bit loose.

When I summitted that route years ago, we found a huge box of empty beer and wine bottles at the top! It was a real pain transporting them back down and to the trash!

Also, I think from the summit it's a funky downclimb on the back, through some sort of block-filled gully, instead of a rap. Again, I could be mistaken, it's been awhile.

Enjoy! Apr 15, 2003
Damn, this was one of the hardest routes I have ever been on. I expected the usual Garden slab, but this was something completely different. I don't think many people climb this because there was none of the tell-tale signs that are common markers on Garden routes. You know, chalk, black rubber marks on the rock, things that maybe give you a hint to as what direction you need to go. It was not bad until the third bolt. There you encounter a bulge slab thing that is very perplexing. It is hard to tell which direction is the best. Once past there, it does not look terrible though. A route that I will definitely try again next time that I am there. Hopefully, my next post to this route will be a succesful one. Apr 15, 2003

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