Type: Sport
FA: Leonard Coyne, Ken Sims, Ed Webster, 1977
Page Views: 2,524 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris R on Sep 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2019 Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Cocaine is a classic Garden friction climb. This line is on the left side of the Drug Wall. Start left of Silver Spoon, then trend up and left on mostly easy slab towards the low end of a funky horizontal corner--step over this corner. There isn't much, if any, psychological pro you can sink before the first pin. Once that pin is achieved, though, pro is adequate. Keep moving up and slightly left past another pin or two to a friction move straight up. The tricky part of this line are the traverse moves. The line isn't direct from this point--you will step up and left again and clip a pin (use a long sling on this one), then swing back right and up on thin holds. Aim straight up for a small, right-facing flake that leads to a belay ledge and fixed chain anchors.

Descend by rappel or (not recommended) downclimb the gully to the climber's right. Use double ropes to get to the ground, unless you single-rope rappel down the gully to the Silver Spoon anchors and then to the ground from there. This is a fun and creative line for the friction feet, crimpy hold masochist. Variation: instead of the left-then-right traverse at mid-route, go straight up past a pin at 11b-ish.

Protection

Drilled angles. The first pin is a good way off the deck, but the climbing to get to it is fairly easy. Bring a couple long slings to ease rope drag.

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