Avg: 1.2 from 12 votes
|Type:||Sport, 140 ft (42 m)|
|Page Views:||1,793 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Joel Larner on Jul 18, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Julie Nelson: the forest is closed due to after fire concerns in this area until June 30, 2021. There is a sign at the trailhead about the closure. See the US Forest Service website for further updates.
Previously: per Bruce Hildenbrand: Storm Mountain Road is open to all.
Per Hank C: the Storm Mt./Cedar Park area is closed to locals-only traffic for the time being due to wildfire concerns. We were turned away by a park ranger this morning (9/12/2020).
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Crystal Staircase is an enjoyable mid grade 5.7. The first few bolts are quick to reach, then after bolt 5 it becomes runout up to the anchors, although the risk of fall is much lower since the route mellows greatly.
There are no anchors specifically for this route. You need to keep climbing up to the very top of the Vestry, then you'll see the anchors for Stand Up Comedy at the far side of the top. Use these to belay up your partner. The views of the Devil's Gulch and the Monastery are fantastic from atop the Vestry, and it is a huge area up there.
To exit the route you have many choices: 1) bring up a second rope for a dual rope rappel, 2) rap down Stand Up Comedy on the opposite side of the Vestry then walk back through the Inner Sanctum to return to the start, 3) have the second head directly to the anchors at the top of Abbott Arete, clip in, then put the leader on belay to get down to these anchors. They are readily visible when at the anchors atop the Vestry. From here it is a single 60 meter rope rap to the flake at the base of Monastic Groove and Southern Hospitality. #3 is my preferred way down.