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Routes in Outer Gates

Abbot Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Altered Boy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
CCD S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Cloister Frock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crucifix S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Staircase S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dale's Downpulling Digits Decadent Donjon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fin Du Monde S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Going to the Chapel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hog Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jesus on a Stick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Maudite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Monastic Groove S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moving to Montana S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystery Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mystery Here S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Simplexity S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Southern Hospitality S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steeple, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Smoked Porter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Table Wine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trois Pistoles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Buck Chuck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown [Outer Gates] S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Stuemke, 1995
Page Views: 1,236 total, 8/month
Shared By: Joel Larner on Jul 18, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Crystal Staircase is on the right edge of the Vestry, to the right of Monastic Groove.

Crystal Staircase is an enjoyable mid grade 5.7. The first few bolts are quick to reach, then after bolt 5 it becomes runout up to the anchors, although the risk of fall is much lower since the route mellows greatly.

There are no anchors specifically for this route. You need to keep climbing up to the very top of the Vestry, then you'll see the anchors for Stand Up Comedy at the far side of the top. Use these to belay up your partner. The views of the Devil's Gulch and the Monastery are fantastic from atop the Vestry, and it is a huge area up there.

To exit the route you have many choices: 1) bring up a second rope for a dual rope rappel, 2) rap down Stand Up Comedy on the opposite side of the Vestry then walk back through the Inner Sanctum to return to the start, 3) have the second head directly to the anchors at the top of Abbott Arete, clip in, then put the leader on belay to get down to these anchors. They are readily visible when at the anchors atop the Vestry. From here it is a single 60 meter rope rap to the flake at the base of Monastic Groove and Southern Hospitality. #3 is my preferred way down.

Protection

5 bolts. A long runout maybe 40 feet or more between bolt 5 and the anchors, although the pitch mellows a lot and it becomes a comfortable 5.6 or 5.5

Photos

Geissler Golding
  5.7 R
Geissler Golding  
  5.7 R
Just climbed this route and yes it's run-out (even after the 4th bolt), but it now sports an anchor (2 new bolts/hangers).
Aug 14, 2011