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Routes in Outer Gates

Abbot Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Altered Boy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
CCD S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Cloister Frock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crucifix S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Staircase S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dale's Downpulling Digits Decadent Donjon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fin Du Monde S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Going to the Chapel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hog Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jesus on a Stick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Maudite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Monastic Groove S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moving to Montana S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystery Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mystery Here S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Simplexity S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Southern Hospitality S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steeple, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Smoked Porter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Table Wine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trois Pistoles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Buck Chuck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown [Outer Gates] S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: [Pat Thompson & Azenda Cater]
Page Views: 4,834 total, 25/month
Shared By: jeff mcnair on May 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

This is a great intro to the type of climbing in this area. There are lots o' little knobby stuff to edge on. Trust your feet. As with most of the climbs in this area, the views are great from the top of the towers.

Protection

Nine bolts to a two bolt anchor.
In June 2014, Dale Haas and I added SS quicklinks and rings to the anchor. The American Safe Climbing Association - ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. They appreciate your support. Jan 19, 2015
Colorado John3
Nederland, CO
5.7+
Colorado John3   Nederland, CO
5.7+
Fun route but pretty solid 7. My first time at the Monastery, but it seemed like you could get a decent foothold almost anywhere. Sep 29, 2014
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
A lovely climb. I have to agree with Tom - compared to other climbs in the area, this is a pretty stiff 5.7. It's harder than Monastic Groove (5.8), for instance. The first clip is okay, but is a little dicey - I don't know if it's the crux, but it's a hard first clip compared to the rest of the route. Apr 16, 2009
Jason Shatek  
 
I'll have to agree the crux is right off the ground. I believe I went right off the ground and crossed over left to the little ledge to clip the bolt. This is a good quick climb if you're just trying to beat the weather and get in another climb :) Jul 28, 2005
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
I'd agree that the 5.7 move seemed to be getting to the first bolt. I also found myself crimping down on the pebbles and crystals more than actually pinching. (Lotta Balls in Red Rocks? THAT seemed to be a pinchy sequence of moves.) Although "Pandora's Pebble Crimping Party Palace" doesn't have quite the same alliteration appeal.... May 31, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Fun route! Very typical Monastery climbing. Nice shady belay while you can climb in the sun. Getting to the first bolt might be crux, after that relax and enjoy the pebble pinching party. May 23, 2003
I agree with the route comments here. An excellent example of Monastery style climbing. Probably the most vertical of all the routes in this area, which makes it a bit more challenging than other routes of the same grade. But the satisfaction at the top is worth it. Look for and trust your feet, you'll need them. Have fun!! Aug 30, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
On saturday I was belaying my partner up this fine route when - ho! - the first bolt came spinning down my rope along with my quickdraw. The washer and nut went skipping down the hillside. Luckily I came prepared with wrench and we were able to replace and tighten the bolt.

We also found anchors that could use some tightening around the area.

It's a long cold winter up there and it takes its toll on the metal - use caution, don't ever trust just one bolt and have fun... May 28, 2002