Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Howard Birkhart, Bill Serniuk, Errett Allen
Page Views: 215 total · 1/month
Shared By: Errett Allen on Nov 8, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Begin about 30 feet left of Going to the Chapel on the same formation. Climb up to the second bolt in a large scoop, pull the crux (5.9), and climb past four more bolts. You can then step diagonally up and right to clip the seventh bolt of Going to the Chapel, and either finish up that route or traverse further diagonally up and right to the anchor of Simplexity.

One rope will allow a rappel from the Simplexity anchor, however one rope will *NOT* reach the ground from the Going to the Chapel anchor, but you can do a short rap from this anchor to the Simplexity anchor and thence to the ground.

Protection

7-9 draws, depending on how you finish.

Photos

Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
This is a fun route that is tucked away so not visible unless you know to look for it. We met Errett & Bill (the guys who put the route up) and they pointed it out, else we'd never have noticed it. To find it, stand at the base of "Going to the Chapel" and look up the gully to your left. There is a huge rock chocked about 6 feet above the bottom rock in the constriction. The bolts are on your right (same rock as Going to the Chapel) just before these large rocks.

The 5.9 portion only runs for 4 bolts, but it is solid 5.9 throughout, thus a lot of fun. Aug 15, 2005
JFM
  5.9
JFM  
  5.9
The rock down low is fairly dirty / flaky; this makes for a medium pucker-factor.

Sustained climbing down low eases and eventually turns to a very run-out scramble (40'ish of 5.2?) to the anchors (2 cold-shut types). May 12, 2013