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Routes in Outer Gates

Abbot Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Altered Boy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
CCD S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Cloister Frock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crucifix S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Staircase S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dale's Downpulling Digits Decadent Donjon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fin Du Monde S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Going to the Chapel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hog Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jesus on a Stick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Maudite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Monastic Groove S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moving to Montana S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystery Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mystery Here S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Simplexity S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Southern Hospitality S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steeple, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Smoked Porter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Table Wine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trois Pistoles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Buck Chuck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown [Outer Gates] S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Lawrence Stuemke, 1995
Page Views: 5,629 total, 30/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Jun 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is right of Wes Bound on the arete just uphill from Table Wine and the entrance to the Inner Sanctum. Typical Outer Gates slab/face climbing on crystals, with a steeper 2-3 bolt crux. Escape left to the anchors of Wes Bound after 9 bolts and bring up your second to rap with one rope, or continue to the routes own anchors and a 2-rope rappel.

Protection

11 bolts plus anchors.
Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shut hangers on the anchor bolts with SS bolts and hangers. We added SS quicklinks and rings. The American Safe Climbing Association - ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. They appreciate your support. Jan 19, 2015
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
FA: Lawrence Stuemke, 1995

Lowering from the anchors at the top of Wes Bound is definitely the preferred method as the climbing from there to the top is uneventful and of lower quality. Aug 3, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A really fun 5.7. Sep 12, 2006
Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
You can also rap from the Abbot Arete anchors with a single 60 meter rope if you go down to the large flake that Southern Hospitality begins from. If you choose to use the Wes Bound anchors, you can actually be lowered on belay if you descend into the Inner Sanctum along Wes Bound. A 60 meter rope will reach from the base of Abbott Arete to the Wes Bound anchors and down to the base of Wes Bound with plenty to spare. Aug 4, 2004
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
You can actually rap from this route with two one rope rappels by going to the rap station for Southern Hospitality. Fun route that was definitely stiffer climbing than the two 5.7s down the hill. Enjoy this excellent, long climb. Jun 28, 2003
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This route is every bit as good as No Mystery Here, if not better. The bolts were thoughtfully placed (but not always comfortably placed). The crux starts around the 6th or 7th bolt where the route steepens. There is a very positive right-facing flake with bomber holds. Once over the flake there are a couple options like Dave pointed out. The first is to clip into Wes Bound's anchors and then rap. The second is to continue straight up past two more bolts to Abbot's anchors. There is a long run out between the 9th and 10th bolts with pretty straight forward climbing. You could probably clip the right bolt on the Wes Bound anchor with a long sling if you wanted. Stellar route with fantastic views. Jun 5, 2002