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Routes in Outer Gates

Abbot Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Altered Boy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
CCD S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Cloister Frock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crucifix S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Staircase S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dale's Downpulling Digits Decadent Donjon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fin Du Monde S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Going to the Chapel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hog Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jesus on a Stick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Maudite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Monastic Groove S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moving to Montana S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystery Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mystery Here S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Simplexity S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Southern Hospitality S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steeple, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Smoked Porter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Table Wine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trois Pistoles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Buck Chuck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown [Outer Gates] S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Rick Thompson & Pat Thompson, June 2003
Page Views: 3,967 total, 21/month
Shared By: Rick Thompson on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

In English: "The Damned One". Given the name, I suppose you'll be damned if do, and damned if you don't. The climbing on this route isn't exactly your standard Monastic crimping fare. Instead, you'll find intriguing movement on sculpted rock that leads to robust finish. It is a bit unusual for the area and one of the area's longest and most varied of the grade.

Commence 12 feet right of "No Mystery Here" and romp over scooped-out features to gain the start of a seamed-out crack in a dish. Finesse your way past the delicate opening moves and continue up the crack/flake as it curves up and right to an exposed finish.

Protection

13 clips.
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Did this thinking it was No Mystery Here. Ha, ha, ha. Not quite what I was expecting. The crux is entering the shallow gully feature 1/3 way up. Jul 4, 2012
David Cooper
Annapolis, MD
  5.9
David Cooper   Annapolis, MD
  5.9
This is a really nice route. Bolts where you want them. Good rests along the way. No moves harder than 5.9, and with so many good rests and well placed bolts, can't see this graded harder than 5.9. Calls on a lot of different movement and technique which makes it a classic and may have some folks finding it more challenging if not experienced on varied rock. Jun 4, 2012
Rockwood
West Jordan
Rockwood   West Jordan
Climbed with my brother thinking we were on No Mystery Here, and that it was the hardest 5.7 we'd ever seen. When it gets hardest, I think the key was reaching around on your left to some great hand holds around the bulge. The ground slopes up steep on the right, so if you rappel to the side, you're good. We found our 60m rope had us both on the ground without an inch to spare. Sep 14, 2009
Ben Burnett
Colorado
5.10a
Ben Burnett   Colorado
5.10a
The crux is tough, I'd agree 10a. But it's not a sustained route. Good and varied! Sep 8, 2009
C Miller   CA  
Here's a good link to the story of the Chasse-galerie Jun 11, 2007
Nate Oakes  
 
Good route...I'd agree with a 10a rating. The crux for me was the inside corner 1/2 way up. A 60m rope just gets you to the ground a bit uphill from the start of the route. Bring plenty of draws, and make sure to enjoy the nice view of Longs and Meeker from the top! Jun 11, 2007
A solid pitch; the climbing is pretty easy until you get to the crux 3/4 of the way up; the crux is stiff but the climbing afterward is not to be missed. Jul 28, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
A varied pitch with excellent climbing from bottom to top. Interesting face moves down low, delicate stemming in the crux corner, then fun laybacking and stemming up the arching crystalline seam to the top.One of the best routes I've done at the Monastery. Jul 25, 2005