Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,817 total · 9/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Jun 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Description

Twenty feet right of Going to the Chapel, this is a great face climb with a crux at the first bolt and a Thank God jug after the sequence. It was the best route of the day.

Protection

6-7 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

Clint Locks
Boulder
Clint Locks   Boulder
I enjoyed this route a lot, as it was more interesting than a number of the others in the area. The opening moves make the climb, and aren't as bad as the Gillette book says. It WAS nice to have a spotter to the first bolt, though. Jun 18, 2003
This is a fun route! A little technical footwork then have fun! Bolts where you need them. Dec 22, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
If you're not up for leading the hard climbing to the high first bolt and didn't bring your stick clip, you can lead Going to the Chapel and then rap down to the anchor atop Simplexity.You can then top rope Simplexity or pre-clip the first one or two bolts. Jul 25, 2005
Chris Swope
Greeley, co
Chris Swope   Greeley, co
Did this route yesterday I think. Actually did three routes right around that area but am not sure what the other two where. I am assuming Simplexity is the one that goes up the black streak like the book says. Does anyone know what the two route are to the left of it and to the right of Going to the Chapel. They seemed maybe 5.8 and 5.9 ish. Sep 10, 2005
Theo Barker
Formerly Loveland, CO
 
Theo Barker   Formerly Loveland, CO
 
The route between Going to the Chapel and Simplexity is Altered Boy. If your start off the ground wasn't substantially harder than the most of the rest of the climb then you were probably not on Simplexity, but one of the unknown routes to the right of it. Sep 30, 2005
Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
A blue Metolius TCU placed in the slanting crack will protect the tricky moves to the first bolt. That sequence may be the crux of the climb. Jun 15, 2008
Canon
  5.9+
Canon  
  5.9+
A spotter to the first bolt would be nice, and you really dont want to let go of that "Thank God" jug. Aug 7, 2012
In June 2014, Dale Haas and I replaced one of the cold shut hangers (we couldn't unscrew the other anchor bolt, but it was OK) on the anchor with SS hanger. We added SS quicklinks and rings to the anchor bolts. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association- ASCA(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Dec 11, 2014
Zeffe
  5.9+
Zeffe  
  5.9+
Enjoyable! The crux is between 1st and 2nd bolt. Interesting sequence and a bit tricky given you could come close to the ground if you blow it. Aug 7, 2016
Dale Haas and replaced the other cold shut anchor at the belay with a SS Powers 5-piece bolt. The anchor now has one SS bolt, one plated steel bolt, two SS hangers, and SS quicklinks and rings. Aug 22, 2016
Kat Desilane  
 
Getting to first and second bolts is sketchy. The spotter's position is precarious on rough, sloping ground. The very first moves are pure slab - no pebbles, no ledges. Just gotta stick your feet on and pray. The top gets a little repetitive but is still nice climbing. Jul 21, 2018