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Routes in Outer Gates

Abbot Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Altered Boy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
CCD S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Cloister Frock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crucifix S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Staircase S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dale's Downpulling Digits Decadent Donjon S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fin Du Monde S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Going to the Chapel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hog Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jesus on a Stick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Maudite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Monastic Groove S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moving to Montana S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystery Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Mystery Here S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Simplexity S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Southern Hospitality S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steeple, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Smoked Porter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Table Wine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trois Pistoles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Buck Chuck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown [Outer Gates] S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Rick Thompson & Dan Green, July 2003
Page Views: 1,940 total, 10/month
Shared By: Rick Thompson on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Long and sustained, brace yourself for a continuum of sneaky moves as the thinness crescendos just shy of the finish. There's a good bit more here than first impressions might suggest. Commence ten feet right of "La Maudite" and finesse the opening groove, then fire onto the long headwall. Crimp like there's no tomorrow as the crux seems to go on and on and on! Shares anchors with "La Maudite".

Protection

14 clips. Warning: a 60 meter rope is required.

Photos

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Kelly K
 
Kelly K  
 
I agree with Ben. Cutting off to the left right before the headwall felt consistent with the rest of the climb, and it was actually was a lot of fun climbing in the crack toward the anchor. Probably a sustained 5.9+ by heading left. Aug 17, 2012
Ben Burnett
Colorado
Ben Burnett   Colorado
I couldn't get this one even on toprope, and while I'm not in good condition right now I'd say this has to be at least an easy 11. Bailing left below the crux will yeild a difficulty of around 8 - 10a (depending on your exit) in my book. The route was fun but the crux seemed out of character with the rest of the climb and it seemed better to go left anyways. Sep 8, 2009
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
 
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
 
Dan, cutting off before the headwall certainly avoids the sustained and long crux on this one, which segues into my curiosity about the suggestions this route checks in at 5.10-something...even more curious if anyone posting those comments has actually led the route sans falls...Rich Aschert - well known Shelf Road first ascentionist and prolific all-around climber - did the second ascent, on sight, about a month after it was put up, and agreed with the mid-5.11 grade. A number of other climbers have also done the route and agreed with that grade. Of course, at the end of the day it's all subjective, nothing more, nothing less.... Aug 3, 2009
I did this today, but cut off before the headwall. (This isn't in the new Gillett book; I had no idea how difficult it was.) Instead, I finished up on the crack at the top of La Maudite. I clipped the top 2-3 bolts of this climb, but next time would probably clip the bolts on La Maudite, rather than strain to clip the bolts on this climb. My friends and I thought this variation would probably be a 5.8 or 5.9. Aug 22, 2004