All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Cathedral Spire… > Dome

South Side Johnny

Name: South Side Johnny
Rating: 1.5

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

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Routes in The Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bolts to Somewhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
	RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	39.41867, -105.26798
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,838 total · 6/month
Shared By:	toby nitchka on Nov 28, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026 Details

Per Alex R: the Cathedral Spires Area is closed for raptor nesting March 1 - July 31, 2026 and each year. See: jeffco.us/1191/Cathedral-Sp….

Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.

Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.

2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures

The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…

Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.

Access Issue: Private Property on current approach Details

Per T D: the current approach goes through private property.

Description

Location: south slabs of the Dome. Walk up to the saddle just south of the Dome, northwest of the Bishop. Drop over the west side. Pass a monster boulder that has split open (making a nice boulder problem on the smaller chunk), then take a right and walk north. Staying to the right, there's some fourth class scrambling to get you up the the climb's base. It's a meandering crack on the left of a 5.5 gully; you can see rappel slings at the base of a medium-smallish lone pine halfway up.

The climb: I thought this was Seamus at first... It's nice climbing; I agree with the two stars. Medium cams and wires will get you there. If you're just climbing the first pitch, you may want to place a directional before you traverse to the tree; otherwise, your second will be exposed to a decent pendulum. I think the second pitch climbs above in a short, dirty crack, then onto easier terrain...about 5.6. I didn't see any place to rappel from above when walking off a different climb--you have to go way around to the west, and work your way down slabs and boulders--so you may just want to climb the first pitch and rap off the tree. The two slings are fairly new. Nice climb...

ps. There are lots of interesting-looking cracks in this area--short hand and finger cracks, off-widths, huge roofs--all levels of difficulty. Some bolts needed, though. Explore and enjoy!