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Routes in Sobo
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Bo Diddley T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Cruising for Bulgar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreams Of Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dreams Of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marsupial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Reckless Abandoned T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sick and Wrong T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sugar Glider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Peter Spindloe, 2/23/02 |
| Page Views: | 1,051 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: No longer closed and no permit is required
Details
Per Tony B: Sobo and the other Southern OSMP crags (Split Block, Diamond Head, The Veil, are NOT closed these days as specified on the map here: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.
Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.
Description
On the south face of Sobo, about 100 feet to the right of the routes Cruising For Bulgar and Good Cleavage, there are a few more routes. These are distinguished by their position relative to "the pouch" a kangaroo-like pocket 20' deep and 30' wide and 4' think formed between a huge flake and the main wall. About 50' right of Good [Cleavage], and 20' up and left of the pouch, there is a tree growing on the wall, 15' from the ground. Climb up to the tree and then up a crack system above the tree. When the crack terminates at some underclings, put in some gear (cams) and go up and right 10' to another seem (crux, 5.8). Climb the seam (poor protection) up to it's end. Rather than pull up to the dike above for a messy traverse, complete the climb by staying some 10' below it and climbing up and left on a series of shallow pockets for 50'.
The climb ends when the pockets run out and you move up onto the dike to belay below a small roof on stoppers and cams.
A fall from high on the face would certainly result in serious injury or death, although the climbing at that point is 5.6. This section could be avoided by moving up to the dike (5.5?) instead of climbing the pocketed section. After a belay, scramble and climb, following the dike up and left to the top of Good Cleavage or Cruising For Bulgar, then descend as described for those routes.
The climb ends when the pockets run out and you move up onto the dike to belay below a small roof on stoppers and cams.
A fall from high on the face would certainly result in serious injury or death, although the climbing at that point is 5.6. This section could be avoided by moving up to the dike (5.5?) instead of climbing the pocketed section. After a belay, scramble and climb, following the dike up and left to the top of Good Cleavage or Cruising For Bulgar, then descend as described for those routes.
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