Elevation: 8,533 ft
GPS: 39.954, -105.3 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,995 total · 40/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: COVID-19 Notice & Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Sobo is another rare "wilderness setting" within Eldorado canyon. There is a string of summits extending from Rincon to the north/north west, including Cadillac Crag, The Veil, Physical Crag (and Split Block), Diamond Head, and Sobo, which is the most remote and probably the least visited of these does not see much traffic, even on holiday weekends. My partner left a pair of sunglasses at the base of a route there in July of 1996. I picked them up in February of 2002.  This may be the best place to go if you fear crowds in Eldo.
The old Rossiter guide listed only 3 routes at Sobo, but there are now at least 10.  Five of these are very good single-pitch cracks, and would have climbers cued up like Calypso if they were close to the road. These alone are are worthy of a hike in for a day of climbing.
There is potential for a few more lines if someone wants to do a few hair-raisers.
Top-roping at Sobo would be difficult though, due to a lack of good summit access trails.  Much like the other crags in this summit chain.

From the Eldorado Trail, Sobo looks like a large Triangle, just West Diamond Head, and East of the summit cliff-band of South Boulder Peak. Sobo faces predominantly South, and gathers light all day. The climbs are mostly pure crack, such as Good Cleavage, Cruising For Bulgar, Dreams Of Light, and the wider Dreams of Darkness.  The two moderate routes, Marsupial and Sugar Glider, involve some runout face climbing. Most of the known routes on this rock would be or are starred routes in the local guidebooks, but none see much traffic.

Descent: To descend after climbing, scramble and walk left off of the top around a corner to the northwest, and then down to a tree with a red sling. Rap 50' from the sling to the ground and then walk back among the corner to your packs. This is an easy descent and should take about 5 minutes. Some down-climbing could be eliminated with another sling around the uppermost tree.

Getting There

From the Eldorado Canyon Train, starting as for Rincon or Cadilac crag, passing the Rincon cut-off. Continue on the trail until you are directly below Diamond Head, then scramble uphill over talus to reach the base of Diamond Head, then traverse West to Sobo. This should take about 60-90 minutes. There are some sections of marked trail (cairns) down from Diamond Head, but even from the top down, these can be difficult to follow, and you may end up just wandering down the hill. Although there is not much of a trail, the hike is much longer than it is difficult, if you make it a point to avoid any thickets.

Per Tony Bubb: Sobo is not within the Eldorado Canyon SP. Thus, it is not under the state park jurisdiction.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sobo

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Good Cleavage
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 5
Dreams Of Darkness
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Dreams Of Light
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Good Cleavage
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dreams Of Darkness
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Dreams Of Light
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
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