All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Sobo

Good Cleavage

Name: Good Cleavage
Rating: 3.1

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Sobo

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bo Diddley T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Cruising for Bulgar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dreams Of Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dreams Of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Good Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Marsupial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Reckless Abandoned T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
	Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Sick and Wrong T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Sugar Glider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad
GPS:	39.9536, -105.29954
FA:	R. [Rossiter] & T. Hogan, 1981
Page Views:	2,660 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Feb 22, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Access Issue: No longer closed and no permit is required Details

Per Tony B: Sobo and the other Southern OSMP crags (Split Block, Diamond Head, The Veil, are NOT closed these days as specified on the map here: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….

Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.

Description

Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest-facing prow is obvious. Good Cleavage is a stellar crack and right-facing dihedral system that ascends the right side of the prow. Although the crack in the dihedral looks wide, a finger crack runs up the right side of the dihedral near the corner for most of the length of the climb. While some large gear is [desirable], an offwidth rack is hardly necessary. A solid 5.9 leader could probably manage with all smaller gear, though there might be some space between the leader and the gear for wide move or two.

Begin on thin moves near the ground, getting into the dihedral system and cruise up the sustained 5.8 and 5.8 climbing to the top of the dihedral. You will come to a broken dike that can be passed on the right and up to a belay above a large juniper, or [traversed] up and left to a summit belay on the walk-off ledge. The summit belay is most easily set on a few stoppers and 3" cams - so take an extra of that size.

To descend, walk up and left (North) around the corner on the obvious ledge to a series of trees and rap as described in the 'rock' page for Sobo.