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Routes in Sobo

Bo Diddley T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Cruising for Bulgar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreams Of Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dreams Of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marsupial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Reckless Abandoned T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sick and Wrong T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sugar Glider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: T. Bubb & P. Spindloe, 2/23/02
Page Views: 870 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest facing prow is obvious. Dreams Of Light is a nice and [varied] crack and left-facing dihedral system that ascends from the left side of the prow. Climb up the broken dihedral past a few "trimmed" shrubs to a squeeze chimney. Go up a [squeeze] chimney for 10' to a seat on the arete to the left side. This is a great rest. From the seat, move up a few moves and look left. A hand-to fist crack diagonals up and left through the overhang/roof (3.5 camalot, then #1 camalot). Instead of tackling the messy offwidth straigt up, work diagonally left through the hand-fist crack and pull the overhang (crux) and continue up the thinning crack system. Near the top do not go back right into the dihedral, but continue up and left on (slightly runout?) face climbing, 5.8+. The face climbing could be protected to the right, if so desired, but it will probably not feel hard to anyone who has completed the crux of the climb.

This climb is worthy with a fun crux. Even the squeeze chimney moves are good, and certainly unique for Eldo.

To descend, walk to the left to a series of trees and rap as described in the 'rock' page for Sobo

Protection

A set of TCUs, cams up to a #4 friend, and a set of stoppers. The largest Bigbro would protect the easy squeeze-chimney section, if so desired.

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