All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Sobo

Dreams Of Light

Name: Dreams Of Light
Rating: 2.3

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Sobo

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bo Diddley T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Cruising for Bulgar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dreams Of Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dreams Of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Good Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Marsupial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Reckless Abandoned T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
	Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Sick and Wrong T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Sugar Glider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	39.9536, -105.29954
FA:	T. Bubb & P. Spindloe, 2/23/02
Page Views:	1,895 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Feb 22, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Access Issue: No longer closed and no permit is required Details

Per Tony B: Sobo and the other Southern OSMP crags (Split Block, Diamond Head, The Veil, are NOT closed these days as specified on the map here: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….

Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.

Description

Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest facing prow is obvious. Dreams Of Light is a nice and [varied] crack and left-facing dihedral system that ascends from the left side of the prow. Climb up the broken dihedral past a few "trimmed" shrubs to a squeeze chimney. Go up a [squeeze] chimney for 10' to a seat on the arete to the left side. This is a great rest. From the seat, move up a few moves and look left. A hand-to fist crack diagonals up and left through the overhang/roof (3.5 camalot, then #1 camalot). Instead of tackling the messy offwidth straigt up, work diagonally left through the hand-fist crack and pull the overhang (crux) and continue up the thinning crack system. Near the top do not go back right into the dihedral, but continue up and left on (slightly runout?) face climbing, 5.8+. The face climbing could be protected to the right, if so desired, but it will probably not feel hard to anyone who has completed the crux of the climb.

This climb is worthy with a fun crux. Even the squeeze chimney moves are good, and certainly unique for Eldo.

To descend, walk to the left to a series of trees and rap as described in the 'rock' page for Sobo