Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | T. Bubb & P. Spindloe, 2/23/02 |
Page Views: | 1,822 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 22, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Per Tony B: Sobo and the other Southern OSMP crags (Split Block, Diamond Head, The Veil, are NOT closed these days as specified on the map here: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.
Likewise, they no longer require an HCA permit either.
Description
Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest facing prow is obvious. Dreams Of Light is a nice and [varied] crack and left-facing dihedral system that ascends from the left side of the prow. Climb up the broken dihedral past a few "trimmed" shrubs to a squeeze chimney. Go up a [squeeze] chimney for 10' to a seat on the arete to the left side. This is a great rest. From the seat, move up a few moves and look left. A hand-to fist crack diagonals up and left through the overhang/roof (3.5 camalot, then #1 camalot). Instead of tackling the messy offwidth straigt up, work diagonally left through the hand-fist crack and pull the overhang (crux) and continue up the thinning crack system. Near the top do not go back right into the dihedral, but continue up and left on (slightly runout?) face climbing, 5.8+. The face climbing could be protected to the right, if so desired, but it will probably not feel hard to anyone who has completed the crux of the climb.
This climb is worthy with a fun crux. Even the squeeze chimney moves are good, and certainly unique for Eldo.
To descend, walk to the left to a series of trees and rap as described in the 'rock' page for Sobo
This climb is worthy with a fun crux. Even the squeeze chimney moves are good, and certainly unique for Eldo.
To descend, walk to the left to a series of trees and rap as described in the 'rock' page for Sobo
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