Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Levin, Haas, Bubb, Ruckman, Volk
Page Views: 918 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Bo Diddley is one of the finest thin crack pitches in Eldo and unquestionably the best pitch at this crag.

A climb with ascending difficulty and increasingly thin and sparse protection for the first 70 feet, culminating in a hard and technical crux well above small gear. While the odds of injury for a competent leader of this are not high, the excitement factor will be. The first four climbers up this without falls each solved the crux in different ways depending on height, balance, and edging ability.

The large party listed for the FA is related to the history of the line, which was first seen and TR'd by Steve Levin in the '80s or '90s. In 2008, when it had still not been freed, Jason Haas and Tony Bubb went back not knowing of its history and cleaned it for a lead on the following week. This was by chance mentioned to Steve, who proposed to share the FA. All involved met as a single FA party. By a draw of straws, Steve led the route on the first attempt of the day.

Location

This is the thin seam that can be seen just right of 'Good Cleavage.' Follow this to its end past some crystals to a good letterbox edge, then up to a tree on top above the route, Good Cleavage.

Protection

A light rack of cams and nuts with a good selection of brass/steel and certainly at least one 2" cam for an open pod below the crux. A #5 Camalot (new style) can be placed just above the crux from a very secure stance and protects what would otherwise be significantly runout and insecure 5.10- moves up top. This is advisable since you may also be quite pumped.

Photos

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I put in a pink tricam as my first piece in the seam. A red would also go in and possibly be better. For me this made the pitch safe enough. Also got in a nest of RPs, but for me the tricam was by far the best of the bunch. If this gear blew, you would be lucky not to deck.

Awesome climbing! Jan 19, 2010