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Routes in Sobo

Bo Diddley T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Cruising for Bulgar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreams Of Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dreams Of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Good Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marsupial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Reckless Abandoned T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sick and Wrong T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sugar Glider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: T. Hogan & R. Rositer, 1981
Page Views: 575 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest facing prow is obvious. Cruising for Bulgar is a stellar crack system that ascends the center of the prow. Every size imaginable comes at some point along this steep and sustained route. Fingers, hands, fists and even a wide move or two.

Begin on thin moves near the ground, getting into a crack and flake system for a few feet, then up into the good crack, which is mellow for a short time, until an obvious crux (1.5"-2.0" cam or brown tricam) stops you cold. Beat that crux and then fight through the next 20' of sustained effort to reach the low angle moves. Make low angle moves to get to the summit ledge and belay.

The summit belay is most easily set on a few stoppers and 3" cams - so take an extra of that size.

The crack is very rough and will leave the hands marked and sore if you don't tape up. Although I do not generally tape, I wish I had both times I've done this route, and I strongly encourage you to do so too.

Protection

A set of TCUs, cams up to a #4 friend, and a set of stoppers.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
The texture is certainly aggressive, but the rock is pretty good after the first few feet. Maybe I liked the climb because it was a crack-climb and had some relatively difficult jamming and cruxes. I honestly thought both Crusing For Bulgar and Good Cleavage were great pitches, but too short to really call 3-star routes. It's always debatable I guess.

Tape would definately add to the enjoyment factor, or rather the absence of it subtracts from the potential. I have some scrapes from the acsent & generally speaking I don't have any such problem. Feb 26, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I remember this crack being somewhat rotten, and I didn't think this route was as nice as "Good Cleavage". One star? Feb 26, 2002
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Although the guidebook gives this climb 5.10a, it really deserves the 5.10b/c that Tony gives it. Tape is very definitely recommended! Feb 26, 2002