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Dreams Of Darkness
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Sobo
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Bo Diddley T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Cruising for Bulgar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreams Of Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dreams Of Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marsupial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Reckless Abandoned T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sick and Wrong T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sugar Glider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Peter Spindloe, 5/25/02 |
| Page Views: | 2,565 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 24, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is another new route at Sobo. Approach as for Dreams Of Light, which it to say, head to the left-hand side (west) of the S/SW prow of the rock. Look up at a gaping off-width, that runs for 80' before hitting a broken band and going through a really cool roof on a hand to fist crack. This is the obvious wide system in the attached photograph.
Yes, a few easy moves are done, then an 80' 5.9+ OW to a 4' roof. You will likely get horizontal on it. The roof is not the crux, as the jams are good and the holds are pretty big. It can protect on any cam from 2" -4".
I gave this route 3*'s. I am certain that some other people would not. If you like OW, this is one of the most sustained and long OW's in the canyon. If you don't like OW, you'd call it 80' of hell with a great roof above it.
The route was cleaned by the FA party, but a few of the chockstones left behind might be freed with effort. We jumped on them to check them. In the end, we felt that they would hold if people climbed wisely. Tie them off for pro at your own risk, however.
Yes, a few easy moves are done, then an 80' 5.9+ OW to a 4' roof. You will likely get horizontal on it. The roof is not the crux, as the jams are good and the holds are pretty big. It can protect on any cam from 2" -4".
I gave this route 3*'s. I am certain that some other people would not. If you like OW, this is one of the most sustained and long OW's in the canyon. If you don't like OW, you'd call it 80' of hell with a great roof above it.
The route was cleaned by the FA party, but a few of the chockstones left behind might be freed with effort. We jumped on them to check them. In the end, we felt that they would hold if people climbed wisely. Tie them off for pro at your own risk, however.
Protection
Pro depends upon how many wide pieces you own. There are a few 'iffy' chocks to sling, and you can place a few #5 (Circa Y2K) Camalots (presently #6 C4's) or Big Bros.
The largest piece I took was a #4.5 Camalot, and where I wanted pro, it was 1/2" shy of being big enough. I recommend taking at LEAST a #5 Camalot if you are not comfortable running out 80' of OW with only occasional pro. (2020 addendum: This gear beta refers to OLD camalot sizes, Circa Y2K. Presently a #6 C4 is ideal for the upper section.)
That's not 5.9+ "and offwidth", the OW part is already taken into the grade. If you can't climb OW, you're going to call this 5.10. Think Grande Giraffe, but not slick and lots longer that the OW section of GG.
The largest piece I took was a #4.5 Camalot, and where I wanted pro, it was 1/2" shy of being big enough. I recommend taking at LEAST a #5 Camalot if you are not comfortable running out 80' of OW with only occasional pro. (2020 addendum: This gear beta refers to OLD camalot sizes, Circa Y2K. Presently a #6 C4 is ideal for the upper section.)
That's not 5.9+ "and offwidth", the OW part is already taken into the grade. If you can't climb OW, you're going to call this 5.10. Think Grande Giraffe, but not slick and lots longer that the OW section of GG.
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