Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Tony Bubb, Peter Spindloe, 5/25/02
Page Views: 2,295 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is another new route at Sobo. Approach as for Dreams Of Light, which it to say, head to the left-hand side (west) of the S/SW prow of the rock. Look up at a gaping off-width, that runs for 80' before hitting a broken band and going through a really cool roof on a hand to fist crack. This is the obvious wide system in the attached photograph.

Yes, a few easy moves are done, then an 80' 5.9+ OW to a 4' roof. You will likely get horizontal on it. The roof is not the crux, as the jams are good and the holds are pretty big. It can protect on any cam from 2" -4".

I gave this route 3*'s. I am certain that some other people would not. If you like OW, this is one of the most sustained and long OW's in the canyon. If you don't like OW, you'd call it 80' of hell with a great roof above it.

The route was cleaned by the FA party, but a few of the chockstones left behind might be freed with effort. We jumped on them to check them. In the end, we felt that they would hold if people climbed wisely. Tie them off for pro at your own risk, however.

Protection

Pro depends upon how many wide pieces you own. There are a few 'iffy' chocks to sling, and you can place a few #5 (Circa Y2K) Camalots (presently #6 C4's) or Big Bros.

The largest piece I took was a #4.5 Camalot, and where I wanted pro, it was 1/2" shy of being big enough. I recommend taking at LEAST a #5 Camalot if you are not comfortable running out 80' of OW with only occasional pro. (2020 addendum: This gear beta refers to OLD camalot sizes, Circa Y2K.  Presently a #6 C4 is ideal for the upper section.)

That's not 5.9+ "and offwidth", the OW part is already taken into the grade. If you can't climb OW, you're going to call this 5.10. Think Grande Giraffe, but not slick and lots longer that the OW section of GG.

Photos