Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Tony Bubb, Peter Spindloe, 5/25/02|
|Page Views:||2,295 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on May 24, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Yes, a few easy moves are done, then an 80' 5.9+ OW to a 4' roof. You will likely get horizontal on it. The roof is not the crux, as the jams are good and the holds are pretty big. It can protect on any cam from 2" -4".
I gave this route 3*'s. I am certain that some other people would not. If you like OW, this is one of the most sustained and long OW's in the canyon. If you don't like OW, you'd call it 80' of hell with a great roof above it.
The route was cleaned by the FA party, but a few of the chockstones left behind might be freed with effort. We jumped on them to check them. In the end, we felt that they would hold if people climbed wisely. Tie them off for pro at your own risk, however.
The largest piece I took was a #4.5 Camalot, and where I wanted pro, it was 1/2" shy of being big enough. I recommend taking at LEAST a #5 Camalot if you are not comfortable running out 80' of OW with only occasional pro. (2020 addendum: This gear beta refers to OLD camalot sizes, Circa Y2K. Presently a #6 C4 is ideal for the upper section.)
That's not 5.9+ "and offwidth", the OW part is already taken into the grade. If you can't climb OW, you're going to call this 5.10. Think Grande Giraffe, but not slick and lots longer that the OW section of GG.