Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: FA: J. Hass/T. Bubb 4/08. FFA: J Haas, solo,4/08
Page Views: 1,047 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 28, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Grab good holds to climb over a bulge 2 meters up (5.10a) and then good holds above. A slightly right-leaning, small ramp like feature leads up for 25' to a ledge (good stopper placement possible, but no gear until there, prob 5.9-) there is a medium-sized tree on the 3' ledge a few meters right of that bomber stopper....

Climb up a few face moves to reach a thin seam with good nubs and crimps and to a 3-finger side-pull in the seam. A small Alien placement would be possible, but you want the hold! The route crux (10a again) is a big move off the crimp and monos with OK feet after that slot, near the top.

The route is probably 5.10a or 10b, 2-star or 3-star out of 4. As a sport climb, if bolted, it would be 3-star for sure, but presently the insecure climbing with so little gear detracts from the overall experience.

Location Suggest change

This climb is perhaps 100 feet left of the 'notch' of rock above 'The Dreams' climbs. A tree is at its very base, on the ledge at mid-height, and at the top for an anchor.

Protection Suggest change

TR as of now, but it could (will soon) be lead with a med-large nut for a placement on the first ledge at 20' and perhaps a large brassie or small cam for the seam above.

Photos

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