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Routes in Lookout Mountain Crag

5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
5.10a Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.7 Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7 Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.9 Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Changing Corners TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,288 total, 22/month
Shared By: Darrin Stein on Aug 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Once your at the base of the crag, this is the sport line on the right side. The first bolt is a bit high, but the climbing is only about 5.6 to get to it. Nice line that progressivly gets harder as you move up. The crux comes at the small roof and if your feeling a bit bold, you can move through it towards the left, or take the easier way on the the right. Solid holds all the way to the anchors.

Protection

Three (now 5?) bolts and a two bolt anchor.
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.9
There are currently 5 bolts and poorly placed anchors. There are many ways to skin this cat, but the best rails all leave you reaching left to clip. Jul 4, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The start of this route did feel harder than 5.6. Nov 29, 2012
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
Up to the first bolt is tricky. I must have kept starting wrong as I thought the climbing was easier after the first bolt. Cool rails and crips, with a fun sequence. Good rests and clipping stances, but it's pretty sustained for the short pitch. Jul 2, 2012
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
I don't agree with the original description of this route "5.6 to the first bolt". Not sure if the original "first bolt" placement is there or not, but it sure seemed harder than 5.6 to the current first bolt. Many variations for this face. Lots of footwork and high step practice. Fun exit move. Sep 8, 2009
Casey Lems
Lakewood, CO
Casey Lems   Lakewood, CO
Bring a long draw for the clip above the roof. And make sure you clip the bolt biner with the spine on the rock. When my friend led this he managed to have both biners open due to the way they sat over the ledge on the rock. Aug 11, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
[Ed. - a duplicate route was submitted as "5.9 Sport" by Steve Matthys on Sep 8, 2002 with the following description]:

Labled #2 in the beta photo this route is just left of the 5.6 crack. The first bolt has been chopped which makes the first move just that much more interesting.

Use the TR anchors or lead this on bolts. I believe there are 5 bolts on the route, but do not hold me to that. It's been a while since I have climbed it. Drape slings over the roof to avoid pulling the last moves, or just grow some balls and send the small roof. Sep 28, 2006
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
  5.9
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
  5.9
Hooray! Someone replaced the TR anchors! And 2 other bolts have been replaced on this line. The first bolt is a little bit up - seems the crux is at the beginning, except for the small roof. If you fall before clipping the second bolt (which is easier to clip than the first) you will deck. Aug 10, 2006
Brian Tessier
Lakehood, Colorado
  5.9
Brian Tessier   Lakehood, Colorado
  5.9
The chopped bolt at the start has been replaced. Enjoy! Aug 12, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
An excellent pitch of thin-edge face climbing. Big jugs at the roof, which is easier than the face below. Dicey moves getting up to the first bolt, which is way off the deck. Best bet: clip the first bolt on rappel before leading.

Excellent thin-edge face climbing.

A bolt should be added to this route at the start; the first bolt is way off the deck, with 5.7 climbing to get to it. Sep 7, 2003
Great route to practice slab climbing. Concentrate on feet as there are plenty of little places when you need them.

Oct 13, 2002
If you actually look on the lower face, about 4 feet up from that little scoop type feature, there is a chopped bolt. All that is left is the metal of the actual expansion bolt, but it's there... Hopefully we can get it replaced to avoid the danger of that first runout... because it appears (at least to me) that this runout was not the FA's style of creating the route.

If you have any doubt that you can't make the first few moves, then just toprope the route... the anchors are somewhat easy to access to set up a TR... although it's a little exposed. Feb 14, 2002
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
Don't fall before that first bolt, it is a ways up. I thought the moves getting to it aren't too bad, but require some careful thought.. After that, it's a cruiser. Feb 13, 2002