Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,747 total · 23/month
Shared By: Casey Bernal on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

63 Opinions

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This is the far left face, just left of the left facing dihedral. This is the route that I think the bolts at the top are for. To access the bolts on top of the crag, go to the (climbers) left side to a little alcove where there is one bolt. Use a belay to access the bolts about 10 more feet down on the face. I gave it no stars because there isn't a distinct line on the face to follow. I did almost give it one because there is a lot of interesting climbing all over the face.


Definitely a toprope, unless you are a hardman in which case you should be climbing somewhere else. Use a short runner looped through one of the bolts, otherwise it will get edge loaded. Some gumbie did the bolt job.


The bolt anchors at the top of this face are horrible. There are four anchors. The top 2 are well back from the face and you would need triple length runners or longer to get your top rope into the right position. The 2 lower anchors, as mentioned in the description, will side load your biners badly. The rock is all scratched up around these bolts, evidence that people are in fact clipping them instead of putting in a sling. Aug 6, 2006
Somebody put chains on the bolts above this face. Although they improve the carabiner side loading problem, you still need to equalize them, otherwise only one bolt is used and the other is not in play. Sep 1, 2006
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The further left you go, the easier the climbing gets near the top. Aim for the finger crack near the top. Sep 2, 2007
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
Just throwing out a feeler here - how would people feel about this being a sport route (bolted)? I think it would be a great route to have 4 bolts or so placed so it could be led from the bottom instead of always TR. There isn't much for trad gear, but it would make a great sport route, IMHO. Jul 11, 2008

I suggest you read several of the comments under the Lookout Mountain main page here.
I would not advise adding any bolts to this crag and you might agree after reading other's posts. Jul 11, 2008
Matt Bolt
  5.7 R
Matt Bolt   Lakewood
  5.7 R
If you're going to break out the rack to hit up some of the other climbs here, might as well get a thrill on this climb. You can double protect about 15 feet off the deck and then run it out to some decent cam placements where the crack begins to angle into the center. I'm giving it 1 star for the climbing and 2 stars for the thrill. May 14, 2009
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7 R
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7 R
Sketchy gear. I ended up pulling off to the arete on the left where the holds are more secure after placing a blue Metolius in the overlap. I could not find a location for two pieces despite my best effort and breaking off part of the overlap on the left side. Don't lead this unless you are comfortable soloing 5.7 slab. Jun 15, 2012
Walt Barker
Reno NV
Walt Barker   Reno NV
Thought about leading this, but upon closer TR inspection, it has really sparse gear. It could be done though. Jul 29, 2012
So, are there STILL TR bolts on top to facilitate easy TR setup? Sorry to ask, but you never know these days. Jul 30, 2012
Walt Barker
Reno NV
Walt Barker   Reno NV
Yup, anchors are still present, lots of gear options, too. Aug 11, 2012
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.6 PG13
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.6 PG13
A crack system that wanders up the face provides quite adequate trad protection (despite some of the previous comments to the contrary). Take your small cams, and this is a reasonable trad lead, as long as you can handle 20 feet of exposure on 5.6 slab to the first gear placement. Well-protected from there to the top. Take a couple longer draws to equalize the uneven anchors. Jul 20, 2014
The far left slabs of Lookout Mountain Crag are now much safer. We trundled some huge blocks today. Everything should clean up with a good rain! Most of the remaining debris is loose soil and smaller rocks.

There are still two bolts remaining; however, it would probably be best to bring a static line to set your anchor with. In the meantime, be careful out there! Oct 21, 2016