Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,398 total · 27/month
Shared By: Steve Matthys on Oct 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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#3 in the beta picture, this route is an easy aid if you can not lead it. You should be solid on 5.10 lead before you attempt this on lead, some of the placements are tricky.


Small cams and stoppers. The TR anchors are very hard to reach, plan on setting an anchor and having somebody lower you to them.


Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.9+ C0
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  5.9+ C0
I have done this route once or twice, the lower section is a blast with great pro and fun fingerlocks with good edges for feet. There is good gear under the overhang but only marginal gear above, I just put a good cam in, extended it and pulled the roof which is slightly akward. I wasn't sure if this was 5.9 or 10 c. It would be cool if it was 10 c but it would be the only 5.10 trad route I have ever done. Also you can get a red lowe sliding nut just above the lip of the roof, but it's kinda blind and wierd, a friend of mine took a fall on one and it held. I think there might be a nut placment above too or another small cam, but it seems the energy is better spent topping it out. Jun 2, 2007
Did this for the first time last night. Nice climbing, that protects well with small cams, and a few stoppers. Plug an Alien below the roof and run to the top from there. A rating of 10c might be a bit inflated, but somewhere in the 5.10 range for sure. Sep 14, 2007
Ken McVicker
Aurora, CO
Ken McVicker   Aurora, CO
I would agree that this is 5.10, but I think a low letter rating. This was a really fun climb with ring lock, finger stacking and lots of small edges, even a Gaston or two. Sep 17, 2007
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.9+ C0
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  5.9+ C0
I think that Deviant in Eldo is harder then this one, at least more sustained and pumpy. I flashed this clean but had to rest on gear on Deviant. I think 9 is a good bet if it's a 10. It's a 1 move wonder IMO. Oct 18, 2007
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
A Wonderful little route, would prob. be old-school 5.9+ at Eldo, pulling the roof actually isn't that bad, you can fire in a bomber Blue TCU or equivalent for some piece of mind right above the roof, and its just a big pull on jugs. Fun, thin moves below this as well with a few decent fingerlocks in the thin crack. The rock here in excellent, not to mention 5 minutes from my house! :) Oct 7, 2008
John Torkelson
Denver, CO
  5.10b C1
John Torkelson   Denver, CO
  5.10b C1
Felt 5.10 to me. Great finger locks down low. Once you figure out the sequence at the roof, pulling it is not that bad. Aug 26, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
There are no independent anchors for this climb. The best ones to use are to climber's left on the 5.10 face. The crux on this is at the roof and short. It is no harder than 5.9 below the roof. Dec 3, 2012
Durango, CO
  5.10c C0
kevinthediltz   Durango, CO
  5.10c C0
Climbed this today in 40 degree weather. This is a really fun route, good finger jams down low with a nice rest just before the roof. Heel hook above the roof as soon as you can swing a leg up there, and you will pull it no problem. Jan 29, 2013
Tom Robinson
San Diego/ Denver
  5.9- A0
Tom Robinson   San Diego/ Denver
  5.9- A0
Did some top-rope solo out at the crag today. All the routes were pretty nice. This was a great climb. Good slabby edging and finger locks to high foot thrust crux at the top. 5.9/5.9-. Watch out for rattlers, just about stepped on one today!! Aug 4, 2013
T Dz
  5.9 C1
T Dz   Golden
  5.9 C1
Really great crack for Golden! Feels about 5.9, maybe 5.9+. Great fingerlocks and good edges for your feet mostly on the left side of the crack. Sometimes peters down to tips/less than tips, but you usually have great feet. Good rests throughout as well. The pro is pretty good, but if you aren't solid on trad gear, I wouldn't recommend it. The roof is pretty intimidating, but once you figure out how to do it, it doesn't feel too horrible. I got a decent heel hook, but other things will work (my girlfriend had some other beta). Best climb at the crag for sure! Sep 8, 2015
Castle Rock, CO
  5.9 C0
Preston   Castle Rock, CO
  5.9 C0
Fun climbing....definitely didn't feel 5.10-...felt 5.9 to me good edges and even at the crux roof it’s not hard. With high feet, you can reach a monster jug, and it’s over...regardless of grade it was definitely fun. Oct 9, 2017