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Routes in Lookout Mountain Crag

5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
5.10a Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.7 Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7 Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.9 Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Changing Corners TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 477 total · 2/month
Shared By: Darrin Stein on Aug 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

At the base of the crag, this is the sport route on the left side. Like the other sport line, the first bolt is high up, but the climbing only about 5.6 to get to it. Climb progressively harder moves as you get closer to the roof, but all are positive. Get solid holds on the roof with a big step to get over it.

Protection

Five draws will do it.

Eds. there may be missing hangers.

Photos

I have never been to this crag before, and I was wondering for the good of the group if this route is safe to lead climb? This route seems fun and within my skill range, and I would like to attempt it but not if the gear is loose/unsafe. Thanks in advance. Jun 26, 2017
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
 
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
 
2nd bolt is still hanger-less.

The first bolt is indeed remarkably high. I think "5.6 up to the first bolt" is a bit of a stretch... it's 5.6 90% of the way up, but the last move to the bolt is pretty thin, and I'd be sketched as hell placing a draw and clipping from that stance.

The roof is very strenuous, and I was not able to get it. Another day.... Oct 23, 2016
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
 
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
 
5.6 climbing to the first bolt? Typical sandbagging when the locals have been running laps on it for years. May 21, 2015
Zach M
Boulder, CO
Zach M   Boulder, CO
The 2nd bolt is missing a hanger. A sling or nut cinched down on the wire can (kind of) protect it, but it is not clearly visible that it is missing from the ground. May 5, 2015
Michael Slater   Denver
WARNING, on this face there were two loose bolts. I think they were the second and fourth. The climber was able to finger tighten them and continue (not recommended). We didn’t have a wrench, so please consider bringing one if you are headed up shortly. Jul 5, 2011
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
 
I forgot to note which bolt, but the nut on one of the upper bolts is only finger tight. Don't know when I'll get back to this crag, but when I do I'll take a wrench and tighten it. Just a heads up if you happen to lead this route. Jun 12, 2010
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10a
There are 4 bolts and 1 cold shut. Nice roof. The moves up to the first bolt are more like 5.8 or 5.9. The crack on the right takes a blue TCU. Nov 1, 2007
I don't want to sound like a snob but there are tons of great top ropes on Table Mtn. The Lookout crag is a tiny local spot with some great history and I would like to see some of the "adventure" remain in climbing this area. I too would hate to see anyone hurt or killed but this climb is safe as a lead climb. I think the route (as well as the whole crag) would lose some of it's charm if it was TR'ed all the time.

Jay Oct 16, 2004
Brian Tessier
Lakehood, Colorado
  5.10a
Brian Tessier   Lakehood, Colorado
  5.10a
Darren has brought up a good point. I have considered the lead climbing aspect of this route and the only logical thing to do is to leave 1 of the 2 anchor bolts where they are and clip it on the way up. The climbing at that point is pretty easy, maybe 5.4. It just seems to me that the person who put this anchor in originally didn't put a lot of thought into the placements of the bolts. I'm in no way the bolt police but just another climber who enjoys climbing there. I have seen some ugly/scary shit with people trying to set up a TR on the route, and would hate to see someone get killed. That's all.

Thanx for the response!Brian Tessier Aug 12, 2004
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
you can safely rig a TR with gear from the top. consider what you would be doing to the route as a LEAD CLIMB if you moved the anchors... Aug 12, 2004
Brian Tessier
Lakehood, Colorado
  5.10a
Brian Tessier   Lakehood, Colorado
  5.10a
If anyone has climbed at lookout mtn crag then they know that the cold shut anchors are poorly placed and getting worn out. So my question is about the 10a climb on the left. Would anyone be offended if I were to replace this anchor? I would be more than happy to upgrade this to 2-3/8"x 3.5"x 6 pc. bolts, fixe hangers and chain (camo. of course).The next question is it O.K. to raise this anchor up ? The existing anchor (5' down from the top) seems to be too low to be able to SAFELY rig from the top of the crag. 36"-42" straight up from these 2 cold shuts would be the location of the new anchor(approx 12"-16"dn from the top).This new anchor would be much easier to reach from the top. I'm curious as to how people feel about this situation. All I'm trying to do here is to make this a little SAFER for everyone to rig. Thank-youBrian T. Aug 12, 2004

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