Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,782 total · 23/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This route is the slabby crack left of the 10a face/roof route. It contains a few moderately interesting overlaps before getting to the big split in the roof, which can be pulled on jugs. Not the greatest route in the world, and the roof is probably not good for a beginning trad leader.


A light rack should suffice.
This is a really nice 60 foot crack. I have to disagree with D-Lo -- this route deserves two stars.

Bring a set of wires, a couple of RPs, and two or three small to medium cams to lead it, with a #3 or #3.5 Camalot for the wide crack in the overlap 3/4 of the way up.

There is a perfect jug for turning the roof. Above the roof there are two or three goofy, sideways, off-balance, unprotected moves to get to the top of the crag. If you peel here, you'll hit the slab below the roof REALLY, REALLY HARD. Be careful. Feb 27, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
An excellent pitch. The moves over the roof are strenuous, and closer to 5.9 than 5.8.

An excellent crack climb with a strenuous roof.

Strenuous moves over the roof. Sep 7, 2003
I say two stars as well. The only thing that holds it back from three stars is the lower angle start and shortness. Might be 5.8 once you know the holds, but for an onsight lead will feel harder and much more committing. Once you commit, there's no going back and when you turn the lip the jugs go away and so does the pro. There is a perfect slot for a 0.75 Camalot Jr. or equivalent in roof itself, but you can make a 0.50 work as well (I did). Sep 12, 2003
Fun crack climbing to a committing roof (5.9). If you plan on leading this one you should be soild at this grade. Great rest just below the roof, shake out, place some good gear and pull over the roof on large holds. Oct 18, 2003
This is a great first aid lead, tiny wires and cams make it fun. Nov 19, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
[Ed. - a duplicate route was submitted as "Into the Void" by Steve Matthys on Sep 10, 2002 with the following description]:

This route is #4 on the beta photo. Fun climb on lead or TR. A tiny runout at the start, but nothing to worry about. Good intermediate climb.

Drape slings over the roof unless you plan on sending the roof without falling. A fall from the roof would hurt pretty bad. Full range of cams and stoppers. TR bolts are located behind the boulder. Sep 28, 2006
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Great Route! Unusual quality rock compared to your typical Clear Creek metamorphosed Choss. More of a true gneiss than much of the low-grade metapelitic schist/arkose [low temp/pressure metamorphosed sedimentary rocks basically] found in the rest of the upper canyon. Sorry for the geologist-speak! :) Oct 7, 2008
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
There are no bolts directly above this climb. Gear anchors are possible. You can top rope it using the bolts above the 5.10 face to the right, or the bolts above the 5.7 arete to the left. Using either set of bolts sets you up for a potential swing should you fall at the crux. Nov 29, 2012
T Dz
T Dz   Golden
Fun route! Falling at the roof might hurt a bit.... Sep 8, 2015