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5.9 Face

5.9, Sport,  Avg: 2.2 from 119 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Golden > Lookout Mtn Rd > Lookout Mtn Crag

Description

Once you're at the base of the crag, this is the sport line on the right side. The first bolt is a bit high, but the climbing is only about 5.6 to get to it. This is a nice line that progressively gets harder as you move up. The crux comes at the small roof, and if you're feeling a bit bold, you can move through it towards the left, or take the easier way on the the right. There are solid holds all the way to the anchors.

Protection

Five bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

[Hide Photo] untitled
The anchor bolts.
[Hide Photo] The anchor bolts.
Looking down from the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the anchor.
A bald Rob, 5-9-12.
[Hide Photo] A bald Rob, 5-9-12.
Looks like a fun lead. First bolt is a little high.
[Hide Photo] Looks like a fun lead. First bolt is a little high.
Unknown man works it thin.
[Hide Photo] Unknown man works it thin.
Ken McVicker further up
[Hide Photo] Ken McVicker further up
Ken McVicker on this route
[Hide Photo] Ken McVicker on this route
Rob Mullen pulling the roof.
[Hide Photo] Rob Mullen pulling the roof.
The 5.9 face route (sport).
[Hide Photo] The 5.9 face route (sport).
Peter Dillon on thin edges below the roof.
[Hide Photo] Peter Dillon on thin edges below the roof.
Peter Dillon at the first bolt, far off the deck.
[Hide Photo] Peter Dillon at the first bolt, far off the deck.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
[Hide Comment] Don't fall before that first bolt, it is a ways up. I thought the moves getting to it aren't too bad, but require some careful thought.. After that, it's a cruiser. Feb 13, 2002
[Hide Comment] If you actually look on the lower face, about 4 feet up from that little scoop type feature, there is a chopped bolt. All that is left is the metal of the actual expansion bolt, but it's there... Hopefully we can get it replaced to avoid the danger of that first runout... because it appears (at least to me) that this runout was not the FA's style of creating the route.

If you have any doubt that you can't make the first few moves, then just toprope the route... the anchors are somewhat easy to access to set up a TR... although it's a little exposed. Feb 14, 2002
[Hide Comment] Great route to practice slab climbing. Concentrate on feet as there are plenty of little places when you need them.

Oct 13, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] An excellent pitch of thin-edge face climbing. Big jugs at the roof, which is easier than the face below. Dicey moves getting up to the first bolt, which is way off the deck. Best bet: clip the first bolt on rappel before leading.

Excellent thin-edge face climbing.

A bolt should be added to this route at the start; the first bolt is way off the deck, with 5.7 climbing to get to it. Sep 7, 2003
Brian Tessier
Lakehood, Colorado
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The chopped bolt at the start has been replaced. Enjoy! Aug 12, 2004
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Hooray! Someone replaced the TR anchors! And 2 other bolts have been replaced on this line. The first bolt is a little bit up - seems the crux is at the beginning, except for the small roof. If you fall before clipping the second bolt (which is easier to clip than the first) you will deck. Aug 10, 2006
Casey Lems
Lakewood, CO
[Hide Comment] Bring a long draw for the clip above the roof. And make sure you clip the bolt biner with the spine on the rock. When my friend led this he managed to have both biners open due to the way they sat over the ledge on the rock. Aug 11, 2009
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
[Hide Comment] I don't agree with the original description of this route "5.6 to the first bolt". Not sure if the original "first bolt" placement is there or not, but it sure seemed harder than 5.6 to the current first bolt. Many variations for this face. Lots of footwork and high step practice. Fun exit move. Sep 8, 2009
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Up to the first bolt is tricky. I must have kept starting wrong as I thought the climbing was easier after the first bolt. Cool rails and crips, with a fun sequence. Good rests and clipping stances, but it's pretty sustained for the short pitch. Jul 2, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] The start of this route did feel harder than 5.6. Nov 29, 2012
[Hide Comment] There are currently 5 bolts and poorly placed anchors. There are many ways to skin this cat, but the best rails all leave you reaching left to clip. Jul 4, 2015