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Routes in Lookout Mountain Crag

5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
5.10a Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.7 Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7 Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.9 Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Changing Corners TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,762 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jeremy Hakes on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is what we improvised for a new route. It starts on the dihedral until you get about 7' below the roof, and then crosses west (climber's right) over to the 5.7 arete and face by means of some positive handholds. Changing corners from dihedral to arete/face is the crux, 5.8. Once on the face, continue on the arete (climber's left) or climb the face toward the right up to the top. You can climb over the top from there toward the TR/anchors, but you have to climb over the rope. Lowering requires dropping back over the arete, or lowering down the right face to a ledge or down to the dirt, although the rope pulls you over to the fall line (towards the dihedral).

Protection

Toprope - We used long (10') slings to set up a TR that drops down over the dihedral - the rope can be managed from there without drag/damage. You can lead the dihedral and set trad gear, but once on the face to the west, there are few places for protection.

Photos

Andy Novak
Golden, Co
Andy Novak   Golden, Co
Wow, I strongly disagree. This route isn't that inspiring. If you want to clip a bolt, there are 2 far better sport routes around the corner. Jan 25, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The crux on this is only about 10' long. A single bolt at the crux would make for a great lead route. I am not going to bolt it, but it would make sense if it had a bolt. Dec 6, 2012
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Great easy trad lead, no need to TR this unless you uncomfortable with runouts on easy ground, the pro is kinda sparse past the dihedral and onto the arete as you said though, so maybe a PG-13 Route for the lead. Very fun warm-up though for the harder cracks around the corner! Oct 7, 2008