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Routes in Lookout Mountain Crag

5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
5.10a Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5.7 Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.7 Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.9 Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Changing Corners TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,810 total, 35/month
Shared By: Casey Bernal on Feb 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is the obvious serrated crack on the right side of the face. Excellent jugs and jams lead to the steep crux (5.8). Short but fun climbing overall.

Protection

Easy access to the cold shuts above the lip for a toprope. Also makes an excellent lead. Standard rack. ~45 feet
B. Smith
Denver, CO
 
B. Smith   Denver, CO
 
I loved this climb! A yellow c3 protects the top perfectly. Chains are perfectly placed. Everything was just so darn good. Aug 18, 2016
tdziedzina
Golden
 
tdziedzina   Golden
 
Definitely a good route for beginning trad leaders! Easy crack with a spicy-for-5.8 crux at the end. My only complaint is that the anchors are on top of the route. Nov 3, 2014
Snow Lily
Golden
 
Snow Lily   Golden
 
"Funnest" on the crag. Zip it up with your rack and enjoy! I like the suggested name too: Jasper's Ass Crack. Aug 9, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8-
There is only one 5.8 move on this climb, but it really is fun! Nov 27, 2012
Addison
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Addison   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Foot jams are so consistent you can climb this without your hands. Also not an .8. Would be 3 stars if it was longer. Nov 1, 2012
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
Gear galore; micros and stoppers. "Book-sized rock" shifted a bit. Top definitely in the 5.8 range. Jul 29, 2012
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
There is also a second loose rock on the top 1/3 of the pitch. It's about a book-sized chockstone in the main crack, just before the roof. Mostly still solid, but it does shift and will get worse with more use as a hand and foothold.

FYI, the broken hold at the top makes the top out much harder and more difficult to protect. New leaders can escape to the right if necessary. Jul 2, 2012
mlauwers
  5.7
mlauwers  
  5.7
Climbed this today - there's a handsized hold at the very top that is very loose and was detriment to finishing the route as it was before. Had the move left and use something else in order to finish. Be careful on that loose rock, could be quite dangerous for those below. Jun 10, 2012
Eben Daggett
Boulder, CO
 
Eben Daggett   Boulder, CO
 
Climbed today! A ton of fun. We felt that "5.8 Crack" was a little boring and preferred calling it "Jasper's Ass Crack". Big fun! May 29, 2012
J P
Denver, CO
  5.7
J P   Denver, CO
  5.7
Definitely agree that this is a good place to bring passive pro.

Some opportunities to place small cams too. Aug 29, 2011
Andrew Bradberry
Golden, CO
 
Andrew Bradberry   Golden, CO
 
Such a fun lead! Every time I get on this I'm surprised at how much fun I have. The crack is super clean and eats up stoppers. Finish with that fun finger lock at the last move! Oct 16, 2010
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Short, but very fun trad lead. Great Aid practice too! Planning on sharpening my aid skills on this route and the nearby cracks in preparation for the Finger of Fate on the Titan in a few weeks... :) :) Oct 7, 2008
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7
This climb could be climbed all passive. Nov 1, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
[Ed.- duplicate route was submitted as "5.6 Crack" by Steve Matthys on Sep 24, 2002 with the following description]:

This route is the first route you will pass if you take the walk down to the base of the cliff. It is an obvious hand/finger crack that you can top rope or lead on trad. Great trad lead for beginners.

Small to midsize cams & Stoppers. For TR, some webbing and locking biners. Sep 28, 2006
It appears to me that this route is the same as the 5.6 C1 route described above. I would go with a 5.6 rating if you turn the roof on the left side. 2 stars only because it is so short. If it were longer it would be a very popular route. Jul 9, 2006
Justin Peacock
Denver/Los Angeles
 
Justin Peacock   Denver/Los Angeles
 
My first-ever outside route many years ago... It's short and fun for a beginner. Pretty good first lead and aid practice, too. May 1, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
An excellent pitch of 5.6-5.7 crack climbing with a brief 5.8 crux at the top.

A solid clean crack climb.

Mostly 5.6 to 5.7, with a brief 5.8 crux at the top. Sep 7, 2003
Great place to climb after work. We are just starting out, and the combination crack and face climbs from the toprope anchors are great. The whole slab is like a big playground... Aug 28, 2002
Mike Mullen
Littleton
Mike Mullen   Littleton
This is a great trad lead. Microcams work well to protect the crux move. May 21, 2002