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Routes in The Wicked Cave

Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hippy Speedball S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tombraider S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport
FA: Marty Alfred
Page Views: 178 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Dec 1, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Shades is the rightmost route in the Wicked Cave proper and the easiest line in the cave. Despite all this, it never sees any traffic and has long since been reclaimed by spiders and silt.

Were this route to receive a proper cleaning it would actually be pretty fun -- fun, that is, until the top bit, which involves doing your best not to stem out to a semi-detached flake the size of a volkswagen bus just five feet to your right.

Some choss is simply too big to even think of trundling; maybe the flake will just fall off itself. Or maybe the bolts could be moved a bit further left.

Anyway, start low in the chossy band, move through porous rock on sharp pockets, then punch up the sustained, bulgy face above. When the angle eases so does the difficulty -- just don't stem out to that block!

Protection

14 draws and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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Awesome climb.... It'd be ever more awesomer if it was rebolted more better..., but that goes for quite some many more climbs in the canyon. Sep 24, 2016
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
I've heard this one has cleaned up a bunch in the last few years. Felt like a pretty quality climb to me. The large death blocks are still there at the top, they looked solid enough, but probably best to avoid them. Almost three stars. May 22, 2016
D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
I thought this one was pretty fun to climb in January, when I did it a few years ago. It stayed drier than some other routes in the cave and got lots of sun. I would climb on this between ice climbs in the morning and afternoon. Jan 25, 2012