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Routes in The Wicked Cave

Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hippy Speedball S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tombraider S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport
FA: Jean-Paul Finne, Kurt Smith (Deity)
Page Views: 176 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 21, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route, while easy to find, is somewhat confusing, given the different names and ratings assigned to it dependent upon which set of anchors you stop at.

Bolted in its entirety by Kurt Smith, this is the first line to the left of the huge bowl of the Wicked Cave proper (there is a crap 12d to low anchors just left of it) and climbs a radically bulging wall to a body length capping roof. While the stone down low leaves a bit to be desired, it gets better the higher you get.

The route is a powerful 12c/d to the first set of anchors (double cold shuts) and features long moves off of good pockets. Continuing past here to a (sometimes) fixed draw below the roof yields Kurt Smith's route Deity (13b), a seldom-done tick at the grade. The full package, which continues out the roof via a powerful, cryptic sequence on undercling fins and poor fingerlocks to a final anchor is Jean Paul Finne's Get Shorty (13d/14a), which he fired off in three tries, fresh off an early repeat of Just Do It.

While easy to dog, the upper roof presents a somewhat intimidating proposition on lead, as you must skip a clip or two and your last clip is under the roof, ensuring a bit of a slammer should you pitch. While lacking the "big number" appeal of the nearby Crew (14b), this route does have an engaging, powerful crux sequence.

Protection

Mucho quickdraws, perhaps as many as 15.

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