Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|FA:||Jean-Paul Finne, Kurt Smith (Deity)|
|Page Views:||806 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Nov 21, 2001|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Bolted in its entirety by Kurt Smith, this is the first line to the left of the huge bowl of the Wicked Cave proper (there is a crap 12d to low anchors just left of it) and climbs a radically bulging wall to a body length capping roof. While the stone down low leaves a bit to be desired, it gets better the higher you get.
The route is a powerful 12c/d to the first set of anchors (double cold shuts) and features long moves off of good pockets. Continuing past here to a (sometimes) fixed draw below the roof yields Kurt Smith's route Deity (13b), a seldom-done tick at the grade. The full package, which continues out the roof via a powerful, cryptic sequence on undercling fins and poor fingerlocks to a final anchor is Jean Paul Finne's Get Shorty (13d/14a), which he fired off in three tries, fresh off an early repeat of Just Do It.
While easy to dog, the upper roof presents a somewhat intimidating proposition on lead, as you must skip a clip or two and your last clip is under the roof, ensuring a bit of a slammer should you pitch. While lacking the "big number" appeal of the nearby Crew (14b), this route does have an engaging, powerful crux sequence.