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Routes in The Wicked Cave

Bad Girls Club S 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b
Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hippy Speedball S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tombraider S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jon Scott
Page Views: 821 total · 4/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Sep 23, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a pretty good one -- just a bash to get to! Park as for the Wicked Cave/Sno-Cone Cave area, then walk down the road (down canyon) about 150 feet until you encounter a little marsh on the right.

Cut around the marsh, then head up loose scree on the hill, and trend a bit left to reach the base of this hidden cave. For reference, it is about 200 feet up canyon of the big seep/waterfall below the Wicked Cave -- don't approach this way, however! A total thrash. Nettles, poison ivy, thistles, etc.

This zone is also referred to as the Cali Cave in the first Rifle guidebook.

The route moves through two roofs down low (a big one, then a smaller one) before climbing a long, jumbly pillar left of the corner/crack system. You wouldn't want to blow the third clip -- a long draw helps here for rope drag.

Sustained, juggy climbing up the pillar leads to a nice rest. Step left into a scoop, move up into a hard bulge on pockets, then head for the anchor -- one open cold-shut and a bolt slung with old webbing. A good little sleeper of a route. No crowds!

Protection

14 quickdraws.

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