The Wicked Cave Rock Climbing
Routes in The Wicked Cave
|Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Hippy Speedball S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Tombraider S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a|
|Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|GPS:||39.707, -107.696 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||13,966 total, 71/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Nov 20, 2001|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Wicked Cave is home to many of Rifle's longest, hardest routes and is an impressive spectacle in and of itself. The cave proper, while way too chossy to climb, forms an immense roofy bowl that is easily 70+ feet from the back to the lip and often runs with water or drips with giant icicles.
Most of the routes are on the super-steep wall right of the cave, which hosts Rifle's first 5.14, Kurt Smith's Slice of Life, now 13d with kneebar technology. There are a couple of routes left of the cave as well, and a mini-cave with three difficult routes (5.13-5.13+) up and left on a dusty bench.
This cave can be pretty muggy and buggy in the summer, as it is very close to a marshy mosquito breeding ground and doesn't see much breeze action. Arm yourself and your belayer with bug juice if you're serious about climbing here, otherwise wait until the fall when conditions are a bit better (a hint: the Project Wall is a much better place for summer climbing because it sees way less sun, is in the deepest, narrowest part of the canyon and is generally breezy).
While the bottom of the wall is somewhat scaly and occasionally wet, the top 2/3 is made up of bomber tan stone with varied and interesting features. Endurance is the name of the game on these routes, all of which are hard all the way to the anchors.
Getting ThereThe Wicked Cave is just downstream from the Arsenal on the same side of the Canyon, and is just across the road from the Fluff Boy (Sno-Cone Cave) parking area.
Drive about a mile into the canyon and park on the right as for Fluff Boy (use the pull-out right on the road instead of parking in the picnic area).
Cross the road and follow a narrow but well-defined trail through the grass to the wall right of the cave. The first route you'll encounter is Shades (12d), a seldom, if ever climbed line up the blocky wall behind a tree.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Wicked Cave
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season